How to Plant a Tree or Shrub From a Container

Many common nursery plants are sold in containers of various sizes and materials. Unlike bare-root and B-and-B, container-grown plants can be planted even while growing vigorously.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Anvil Pruners
• Garden Hoses
• Garden Knives
• Garden Stakes
• Hoes
• Loppers
• Mulch
• Shovels
• Tin Snips
• Tin Snips
• Shovels

1. Plant a container-grown tree or shrub in spring or autumn for best results, especially if it's an evergreen. If that timing doesn't fit your schedule, though, any time except midsummer will work, as long as the soil is not bone-dry, saturated or frozen.

2. Dig a hole that's at least 6 inches wider than the container on all sides and about the same depth. Then roughen up the sides of the hole with your shovel.

3. Remove the plant from its container even if the label says you don't need to; the roots will spread out more quickly. With a small tree or shrub, it's easy to do this job before you lower plant into its hole; with a larger plant, it's easier to handle if you set it into the hole first and then cut away the container.

4. Knock a plant out of a rigid plastic container. Simply tilt the pot onto its side, tap it lightly, and gently slide out the rootball. If the container is made of metal or a soft material such as peat, cut the pot away using a knife, clippers or tin snips.

5. Gently tease out any roots that are encircling the rootball with your fingers so that they are free, taking care not to break up the ball of soil. Then clip off any damaged roots.

6. Place stakes in the hole if you're planting a tree that will need support (see "eHow to Stake and Tie a Tree").

7. Set the plant into the hole at the same depth it was growing in the pot, and begin filling the hole, checking as you go to make sure the plant is standing straight up. Add about 4 inches of soil and gently firm it with your foot or a hoe to remove any air pockets. Repeat the process until the hole is filled.

8. Water slowly to saturate the soil and remove any remaining air pockets.

9. Use any extra to build a temporary berm at the drip line (the place on the ground directly below the outer edges of the foliage) and water again.

10. Keep the soil moist for the first year after planting. Mulch to retain moisture, but keep at least 6 inches bare around the trunk. Check frequently; if you see yellow leaves or the soil feels dry, water immediately.

Tips & Warnings

• Unless you're planting a small shrub or a street or patio tree in a small, confined space, avoid amending (improving) the soil in the planting hole. The 'good' soil will encourage the roots to confine themselves within that small area rather than spread out as they need to.
• Deep, thorough watering is the key to healthy shrubs and trees. Give new trees at least an inch of water a week all around the root zone. (The roots of a woody plant extend about the same distance as its branches.)
• When purchasing a tree or shrub in a container, make sure no roots are growing through the holes at the bottom of the container. The appearance of roots indicates that the plant is root-bound and may be under stress.

on 11/22/2005 Never plant a tree in the area that has standing water (or that will have standing water even for few days when it rains.) Add dirt/top soil and increase the height of the area substantially before planting. If you add the dirt after planting the roots will be at so much depth that they can no longer breathe and the tree may die.

on 11/22/2005 Take an old 3-foot piece of hose, close one end and drill several holes up and down the hose. Loop the hose around the root and up to the surface while planting. Water through the end sticking out of soil and watch for bubbles to surface.

on 11/22/2005 We have several trees on our lot that grew way too big for their spaces - and they're ugly when you cut them back. Buy a tree like a puppy - realize it's cute and little now, but will you have room in your yard for it later?