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Step 1
Have all the electrical wiring and plumbing in place in the walls to be soundproofed.
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Step 2
Hang drywall on one side of all the stud walls of the room to be soundproofed, so that the room is closed in but you still have access to the interiors of the walls. (The side you choose to leave open will vary–—you want to leave open the side that will offer the easiest access to apply the soundproofing material.)
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Step 3
Apply fiberglass insulation batting to the walls. The batts can be packed in fairly tightly–—the denser the material, the more sound you stop. But remember that for actual insulation purposes, the insulation loses value if it's too tightly packed. Hang the drywall as usual.
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Step 4
Alternatively, call in a professional insulation company and have it blow in foam or cellulose insulation that provide great sound deadening and a high insulation value. Hang the drywall as usual once the soundproofing is applied.
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Step 5
As another alternative, hang manufactured soundproofing wall coverings–—such as Pyrotek or Super Soundproofing products–—which are sold as rigid panels or in rolls. You can purchase these at home improvement centers, lumberyards, insulation contractors or drywall supply houses. Hang the covering according to the manufacturer's directions, then hang the drywall as usual.
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Step 1
Remove the drywall from one side of the walls to be soundproofed. (Strip the side of the wall that strikes a balance between offering the most work space and causing the least amount of damage.) Then choose one of the options listed in Section 1.
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Step 2
Alternatively, cut small holes in the drywall near the ceiling, between the studs. Fill the space between the drywall with cellulose or expandable foam insulation. You can rent the machine for applying blow-in insulation at most lumberyards or rental centers, or where you purchase your materials. Expandable foam can be purchased in small spray cans or large containers that resemble propane tanks for your barbecue grill. Patch and refinish the drywall.
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Step 3
As another alternative, hang manufactured wall covering materials (described in step 5 above) over the existing walls (as opposed to behind the drywall). Many come in a variety of colors or are paintable (you'll pay more for the "finished" products than you will for the kind that go on behind the drywall). These products take up very little space and work well. Choose from panels, acoustic matting and vibration barriers.
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Step 1
Install double- or triple-hung vinyl-framed windows in new construction, or replace old windows with upgraded units in existing rooms.
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Step 2
Or make "plugs"–—custom-fit coverings the size of the window, made from one of the manufactured products described above. You can make these yourself by purchasing the material and cutting it to fit.
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Step 3
Alternatively, purchase stylish sound-deadening drapes. These are more expensive than window plugs but much more pleasing to the eye.
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Step 4
Soundproof ceilings by applying sound-deadening matting (as described above) or hanging a suspended acoustic tile ceiling; extra sound dampening can be obtained by rolling out batts of thick fiberglass insulation on top of the suspended ceiling.
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Step 5
Apply sound-deadening mats to upstairs floors to cut down on noise levels. These can be applied under carpeting and often have padding built in.
Comments
tallullah said
on 1/28/2009 Hi Spencer, Do you mean that I should get a shaggy carpet and glue it over the foam or put the shaggy carpet on the floor? I will lock my son in the room with his wretched computer game and his pals on the end of the line with the shaggy carpet covering his entire body and just slip pizza under the door occasionally. He won't even notice.
Aero87 said
on 12/31/2008 why did u say that this was easy? Sound proofing a room is NOT easy! I don't think you know what "easy" means. You probably think it means "hard", but i have news for you: "easy" means easy. "Hard" means hard, okay. I hope you will consider that in your next eHow article.
SHAYLEIGH said
on 9/17/2007 can you soundproof a floor so we cannot hear the any sound below us
SoundDoctor said
on 8/8/2007 I have spent the past 17 years in the soundproofing business. Noise bleeds through walls structurally. The vibrations connect through the common studs to deliver to the other side. Regardless of what you blow or layer in between the studs, unless you disconnect your wall structure and line it with density you will still have bleed. Many of the postings I see here, along with the hosts comments on how to soundproof a wall are incorrect. For those who want to see a visaul on how to do it, or listen to a before/after broadcast online, go to www.eSoundproof.com. Remember, sound bleeds through fiberglass or foam like water through a sponge. You need density to impair vibrations, and a disconnected framing technique to force the collapse of the transmitting sound wave. Disregard much of what you read above or below this message if you're serious about controlling your noise.
nimley said
on 7/27/2007 The first question is, "do you want to keep the sound in or out of a room?" these are 2 different things. The most common is "in", to not let the sound you make escape. Most common sheetrock built walls with no insulation is a pretty good barrier. Air is the issue. Sound travels first and foremost on air. You need to stop its flow. Doors, windows, around walls, these all need weatherstripping, door sweeps, caulk. Every nook & cranny sealed. You still need air. A window not in a common interior wall but on an exterior wall is ok to skip.