How To Do Just About Everything
By eHow Cars Editor
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Austin-Healey produced some of the most popular British sports cars of the '50s and '60s. Although not terribly expensive at the time, those that remain are increasingly valuable and sought-after.
eHow Cars Editor
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Anonymous said
on 8/8/2006 Although aftermarket parts sound convenient, they drop the value of your Austin-Healey and take away the excitement of owning a classic British sports car. But I do suggest changing out the wiring, but that's all I would change. Points are quirky, but they are cheap and easy to install and adjust. Just keep your battery charged and you won't have generator problems. Don't be a fool and mess up an original Austin-Healey by adding all kinds of aftermarket junk to them.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 There were really nine regular production models of the venerable Austin-Healey, and within those, several subtypes. So, it pays to know what you're looking for (and at) when shopping.
AUSTIN-HEALEY 100 (all are two-seaters with folding windshield).
BN1 (1953 through 1955): 2,660-cc four, 1 1/2-inch SU H4 carbs, 90 hp, with 3 forward speeds plus electric overdrive on 3rd and 4th.These early models used the original Austin transmission ? essentially a four-speed from the failed Austin Atlantic, but with first blocked off internally, since it was too low to be useful when this transmission was dropped into the Healey.
BN2 (1955 to Summer 1956): Same as BN1, but different rear differential, slightly larger fender cutouts for the front wheels (to prevent tire scrubbing during turns), and (most significantly) a new, more-robust C-series transmission with FOUR usable speeds (plus the overdrive on 3rd and 4th).
"M" series (1955 to Summer 1956): Same as regular BN2, but larger 1 3/4-inch SU carbs, hotter cam, and higher compression pistons for 110 hp.
100-SIX
BN4 (Summer 1956 through Oct/Nov 1957): 2,639-cc straight six with 102 hp, same C-series transmission and 4.10:1 differential as the 100 BN2, and same BASIC body, but with a stretch cockpit opening and two small rear jump seats, a 2-inch stretch in wheelbase (all within the doors), faired-in rear upper reflectors, a longer hood with a faired-in scoop to clear the radiator, and a new oval grille with horizontal wavy insert as per other Austins. All of this added about 200 pounds compared with the earlier 100.
BN4 (revised; Oct/Nov 1957 through March 1959): Same as BN4, but power increased to 117 hp via larger 1 3/4-inch carbs, larger valves and ports, and higher compression.
BN6 (March 1958-March 1959): Same as revised, more-powerful BN4, but with only two seats and the smaller cockpit opening and rear shroud of earlier four-cylinder 100 models. BOTH 2 and 4 seater 100-Six models were offered between 1958 and 1959.
3000 (several distinct versions here)
Mark I (Summer 1959 through mid-1961): Looks nearly identical to late 100-Six BN4 and BN6. Only differences: While some 100-Six models had a thin peak at the top of the hood scoop, this was deleted with the 3000. And while all 100-Six models had conical rear top-reflector lenses, the 3000 had flat lenses (except perhaps for a few very early cars). You'll also see a "3000" badge on the grille, rather than a "100-6" among the wavy chrome lines. THE THREE BIG DIFFERENCES: 1) 2,912 ccs and 124 hp, along with about 14 lbs. ft. more torque, courtesy of a new engine block and larger bore; 2) front disc brakes, rather than drums (rears remain drums); 3) a 3.90:1 rear-axle ratio. And like the earlier 100-Six, it was sold in 2-seat (BN7) and 4-seat (BT7) versions.
Mark II (late 1961 to Summer 1962): Visually the same, except for a new horizontal-pattern grille. The major change: three 1 1/2-inch SUV HS6 carbs and a slightly hotter cam for 132 hp. Later Mark II roadsters got a revised transmission with the lever dead-center on the tunnel (rather than sprouting out nearer the driver).
Mark II convertible (BJ7; Summer 1962 to early 1964): This is the first Healey with roll-up windows and a true fold-down top, rather than the separate, hard-to-handle top and frame used up to this point. Austin reverted to two 1 3/4-inch SU carbs (now HS6) because three were hard to tune and added little usable performance, but a still-hotter cam kept power nearly the same?131 hp. ALSO OF NOTE: All cars from here onward have the rear jump seats; the two-seater option is dropped.
Mark III (BJ8; early 1964 through end of 1967; 1 car produced in 1968, but registered as a '67): Same body as the BJ7, but power gets a significant boost to 150 hp, thanks to larger, 2-inch twin SU HD8 carbs and an even hotter cam profile. A "phase 2" version arrived in mid-1964 with three further changes: 1) a restyled interior with new wood dash and center console; 2) a revised rear suspension that raises the rear a bit to reduce tail-scrubbing over driveways; 3) larger tail lights and large separate signal indicators front and rear.
I haven't included the 100S?made during 1955?simply because, with only 55 made, this all-aluminum racing Healey was hardly a regular production model. When those that survive do change hands, it's in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.
WHICH COST THE MOST?
Like Hemi "Cudas" and other 60's American muscle cars, all big Healeys have spiked on the price scale of late. Good, relatively rust-free drivers have passed the $20K mark, with good restored examples typically fetching at least $30,000 and concours restorations now auctioning for as much as $100K and beyond. While price depends first and foremost on condition, some cost a bit more than others. Here's a rough, model-by-model breakdown:
?100 models: The four-cylinder cars are clearly the purest and simplest. They're also closest to the original concept designed by Donald Healey and his son Geoff, along with Barry Bilbie and Gerry Coker, who penned the Healey's timeless lines. Later, BN2 cars with their improved, four-speed gearboxes typically fetch a bit more than BN1s, though an early 1953 production BN1 (and certainly one of the late-1952 pre-production examples) can get pricey indeed. Good 100M models now begin at about $45K, assuming they're FACTORY 100Ms; it's easy enough to retrofit 100M parts on a regular BN2 (or BN1) and claim it as original. And while some 100s were modified at dealerships, those with the clearest provenance were modified by the Donald Healey company, typically before the buyer took delivery.
100-Six. For years, the 100-Six was thought of as an interim model between the much-loved 100 and later 3000, and it sold for several thousand less. But growing demand for all Healeys has changed all that. What's more, a look back through contemporary road tests confirms that later BN4s and BN6s performed at least as well as the earlier "100" to 60 mph and better after that, with a higher top speed (111 mph versus just over 100 for the "100"). Those same tests also show that, despite its smaller displacement, a new 100-Six performed comparably to the 3000 all the way up to about 100 mph, after which the 3000 came into its own. BMC made only some 4,000 2-seater BN6s, so they cost a bit more?again, assuming equal condition.
3000. If you prefer the earlier sidescreen Healeys to the later, roll-up window cars, consider the early Mark I 3000s and later BN4 and BN6 100-Six. Then choose whichever example is in the best condition; as I've said, performance differs little between the two. As with the 100-Six, you'll pay a bit more for the two-seater, BN7 3000 Mark I. Find one of the 355 Mark II tri-carb 3000s, and you'll really pay a premium. Two caveats about the Mark II tri-carbs: 1) Many two-seat Mark II cars are really Mark I models or even 100-Six BN6s with later grilles and added-on carbs, so beware; 2) between a really nice 3000 Mark I or 100-Six and a so-so 4-seater Mark II for similar money, choose the earlier cars. The tri-carb engine's added power came on only beyond 100 mph or so and actually gave up some performance below that. Add in the additional tuning hassles, and it's little wonder this setup lasted just nine months.
In a way, the Mark II Convertible comes closest to the term "interim model," since it lost some of the purity of the earlier sidescreen cars without gaining the power of the later Mark III. But when it starts to sprinkle, you'll appreciate being able to yank the top up in half a minute or so, rather than the eight to 20 minutes it takes for an experienced owner to take shelter in a sidescreen Healey. Again, go for condition above all else. Besides, as with all Healeys, you can always add power by changing to later or aftermarket carburetors, cams, and other goodies if you aren't going for a concours gold award.
Like the 100M, Mark III 3000s tend to sell for the most, but for different reasons. While the 100M is arguably the ultimate purist's Healey (aside from the ultra-rare 100S), the 3000 Mark III's wood dash and 150-hp engine combine the most power ever offered in a production Healey with a semblance of luxury. That makes earlier Mark II Convertibles a relative bargain if you want the convenience of roll-up windows (you can always add power), and even earlier Mark I and 100-Six cars a better deal if you want the distinctive "whooom" of the six without the roll-up windows.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR:
Rust, rust, rust. Healey frames are far more robust than the swiss cheese Triumph obviously used beneath its TR4s and TR6s. Get the car up on a lift and pull all four wheels. Take a good look inside the rear wheel wells, at the outriggers that extend outward at each side from the frame, beneath and behind the rocker panels beneath the doors, and inside the trunk (remove the covered-wood panel that goes over the gas tank). Also check whether the doors open and close smoothly and don't sag (a typical sign of hidden rust or a slipshod restoration). Unless you're wealthy, a skilled body man, or both, repairing a rusty Healey can easily cost far more than you'd pay for a clean car.
More than 1 inch of center play at the steering wheel and loose, wandering road manners also point to worn king pins and other front-suspension problems. Rebuilding a Healey suspension and steering box can easily cost $1,000 or more (with parts), so have it checked and use problems as a negotiating tool.
While a few disc-wheel cars came into the U.S., most Healeys (and all four-cylinder 100s) had wire wheels. Stuck knock-off spinners (or hex nuts on '67 models) can be difficult and expensive to remove, and they betray a negligent owner. Splines should be greased regularly, and front-wheel bearings should be cleaned and regreased every 20K miles or so. But wait, it gets better: You'll also find a medley of grease points at the front suspension, along the driveshaft, along the parking-brake cable in back, and even at the rear leaf springs. All need their ration of grease at least every 3K miles, when you change the oil. Most of today's owners don't even know what a grease point is, so beware.
Much has been written about Lucas electricals. Believe if or not, they're the least of your worries?IF you take the trouble to change the wiring connectors. Often, corrosion there causes the intermittent failure for which Lucas has become infamous. If the car hasn't been restored, consider new wiring harnesses a worthwhile investment. In any case, replace all the connectors, light sockets, and bulbs if they haven't been replaced already.
Shock absorbers are another concern. Unlike everything built in America since the mid 1950s, Healeys use lever shocks rather than the usual tubular versions. All four corners should be very firm; fortunately, rebuilt shocks are available (about $300 to $400 for all four, depending on where you shop). You can also convert to tube shocks for about $800.
MAKING A HEALEY DRIVEABLE:
Purists and the concours set insist on keeping their Healeys as close to original as possible. While noble, this philosophy has several inherent problems: 1) Truly original parts can be hard to get, hard to get in good condition, and pricey when you do; 2) Reproduction parts are often INFERIOR BY FAR to the originals?a frightening prospect considering that some of the original parts weren't all that great when they were new; 3) Automotive technology has made significant progress since the 50s, when Healeys were designed, never mind the 30s, when such Healey accessories as starter motors and distributors were actually designed (remember, England was bombed during WW2, and they weren't about to reinvent the wheel for many parts).
So unless you prefer looking at your Healey in the garage to driving it, let me suggest the following upgrades:
1) Dump the original and ridiculous canister-style oil filter for a spin-on version. They're available from a number of catalogs, cost relatively little, and accept common filters available everywhere.
2) Get rid of the ignition points. I've met many otherwise-intelligent Healey enthusiasts who stick with the original-style points, most likely because they're a) technology averse; b) afraid they won't be able to fix an electronic ignition by the side of the road; c) just plain foolish. What can I say.
Here's the real deal: Companies like Pertronix and others make friendly, add-on systems that work with the original distributor and hide seamlessly beneath the distributor cap. Unlike points, which have to be adjusted and fiddled with, changed every 8K to 12K miles, and are constantly wearing and degrading between those intervals, electronic modules can be installed and virtually forgotten. If you're nervous, buy an extra module and keep it in the trunk; if the one you installed ever fails, the new one goes on in a minute or two with a screwdriver.
Better yet: Have the electrical system changed from positive to negative ground while you're at it. And if the original Lucas distributor is seriously worn, replace it with a Mallory Unilite or other, better, American-made unit (again, buying an extra module for the trunk?just in case). Also install what's known as a "filter" for these units to protect them from electrical spikes?just in case.
3) Consider stacking the wire wheels in your garage and replacing them with center-splined alloys. These look exactly like the minilites works-rally Healeys used during the 1960s. They're often on sale for about $250 each. You'll NEVER have to pay someone a fortune to tune wire-wheel spokes or mess with them yourself. Best of all, you can ditch the inner tire tube for good and run wider, better tires if you wish.
4) Use the original generator and starter motor as interesting paperweights and get real. Several catalogs offer a high-torque, Japanese starter motor for less than $300. It's about half the size and three times the cranking power of the original. As for the generator, unless you really like dead batteries, dim headlights, and re-attaching the fan belt on the side of a busy highway, this is a really dumb part to keep beneath the hood. Dennis Welsh and others sell alternator-conversion kits. A tip: Install a simple, robust, inexpensive GM Delco-Remy single-wire alternator, rather than the Lucas unit the Welsh bracket is designed to accept. That will take some modification, but it's worth it.
5) Put in real headlights. Hella makes excellent H4-bulb versions that fit the Healey perfectly. They're flat, rather than convex. I like the look better anyway, but, mainly, I like seeing where I'm going.
6) Swap the Healey radiator for an aluminum version, or at least recore the Healey unit for added capacity. Why sit nervously watching the water temperature head up to 220 degrees if you're unfortunate enough to get stuck in traffic? Aluminum adds the advantage of better heat dissipation, but it's pricey (about $800). By the way, before investing in any kind of radiator, check the water pump and thermostat if you're overheating. Also consider fllushing the cooling system of crud if that hasn't been done.
7) If you stick to lever shocks, dump out the worthless water they're filled with and replace it with something MUCH heavier. I like Wynn's Motor Honey or STP. You get much better, firmer control without the usual fluid leaks. And, no, cold weather isn't a problem.
8) Replace the standard brake-light pressure switch for an electrical version. Unless you like the idea of being run over by one of the countless leviathans that now crowd the roads, this is a really smart move. Two problems with the pressure switch: 1) It often doesn't activate the brake lights unless you're standing on the brake pedal; 2) It typically leaks in short order. Practically any electrical switch will do (mine came off a Peogeot).
9) Slice off the exhaust tailpipe(s) and use them as garden sculpture. Then drive your Healey to your local Meineke or other muffler shop that does custom bending and have them make it so the pipes exit OUT THE SIDE just in front of the driver's side rear wheel. This is what rally cars had so that driver's didn't have to endure that constant scraping sound as the rear pipes contacted anything higher than a pack of filterless Camels. It also looks great and (at least on pre-Mark III Healeys) adds little noise. Because the Mark III has additional east-to-west mufflers at the tail, however, removing this section will bring the noise level up a bit more. You may not mind, though.
10) Re-tighten the shock-absorber nuts (rear and especially front) at least every three months, whether they need it or not (they will if you drive your car). If they are loose, the shock will break, and you'll have to pony up for a new one. Locktite is good here; drilling the bolts and staking them with a cotter pin is even better. Otherwise, simply yank the wheels, get under there, and tighten those nuts religiously.