How to Set Up Your Mountain Bike for Cross-Country Racing

Many mountain bikes are race-ready right from the showroom floor. Whether your bike is brand-new or not, these tips will help get your mountain bike into cross-country race shape.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• All-purpose Bike Tools
• Bike Brake Pads
• Bike Handlebar Extensions
• Bike Handlebars
• Bike Pedals
• Bike Repair Stands
• Bike Seats/saddles
• Bike Stems
• Bike Tires

1. Remove any additional accessories from your bike including racks, reflectors, mirrors, bells or lights (leave lights on if you'll be racing at night).

2. Inspect the frame, fork and all components on the bike for cracks or other signs of trouble. Repair or replace any obvious problems.

3. Set your saddle height by placing your heel on your pedal (in your riding shoes) and raising the seat up so that your leg is straight on the bottom of the pedal stroke (6 o'clock position). Your seat should never be so high that your hips rock when you pedal. You may want to lower your seat if the course is very technical and has many steep downhill slopes, but you may pay for that on the uphill portions. When your seat is at the optimum height it allows you to get full leg extension and full use of your leg muscles.

4. Set your saddle position - start by having it level with the ground and try it that way for a little while. If you are putting too much weight on your hands, raise the saddle's nose by a degree or two. If the nose is uncomfortable and you experience any numbness, lower the nose a degree or two. It may take a while to find the perfect saddle position for you.

5. Set your saddle's fore/aft position by adjusting it so that when your are seated and have your pedals in the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, your forward pedal spindle is in line with the small bump just below your kneecap.

6. Position your handlebars so that they are between an inch and 2 1/2 inches below the seat. The lower they are, the more control you'll have when climbing, and higher bars give more control when descending. Look for the perfect balance of the two to find the best handlebar position for you. You can adjust your handlebar height with riser or flat bars, different stem heights, and spacers under the stem.

7. Be sure that the ends of your handlebars are covered by the ends of the grips or are filled with plugs.

8. Position bar ends anywhere between parallel to the ground and a 45-degree angle from this parallel. Go to the lower end of the spectrum for more performance-oriented positioning.

9. Inflate your tires to a tire pressure that works with your weight, the tires that you are using and the course conditions.

10. Choose clipless pedals over platform pedals with toe straps. Although clipless pedals are a bit intimidating at first, you get a better connection with the bike, and they are much easier to get in and out of than toe straps.

11. Check to make sure that the chain is clean, lubed and not stretched. Chains stretch over time, and this will lead to bad shifting and gear slippage.

12. Check the front and rear derailleurs to make sure that they are shifting properly and cables are in good condition. Bad shifting is not only very frustrating but can also blow the race for you.

13. Be sure that your brake cables, pads and levers are in good condition and working well.

14. Turn your handlebars from side to side and see whether there is any play in the headset or whether you hear any grinding noises. Disassemble, clean, grease and adjust if necessary.

15. Check your suspension fork for smooth performance and no play in the fork legs. If your fork isn't sliding easily, refer to your owner's manual or check with a local shop for maintenance.

16. Ride your bike after doing any adjustments or repairs. You'll want to feel comfortable and confident at the start line.

Tips & Warnings

• The best upgrade that you can make for better performance is lighter tires and wheels. The rotational weight has a huge impact on how a bike accelerates and climbs. Start with kevlar-beaded tires and then go with a nice light wheel set. You'll notice the difference on your first ride.
• When selecting a tire for racing, choose a tread design that works with your riding style and the course conditions. Semislick tires are great for racing, but they do take some getting used to, and they aren't for all riders and courses.
• Higher tire pressure gives less rolling resistance and reduces the chance of pinch flats. Lower tire pressure gives better traction.
• Many full-suspension bikes have different settings for the rear suspension, ranging from firm to soft. The firmest setting is usually best for cross-country racing.
• If you're unsure of how to check or adjust anything on your bike, such as the shifting or the suspension, bring your bike to a local shop.
• Mountain bike racing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.

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on 1/26/2006 Use of the heel on the pedal to lock the knee results in a slightly flexed knee at bottom dead center of your pedal stroke when clipped in. The heel will naturally lift during the stroke, so using it as a saddle height guide is fine. Bicycle shoes don't have cleats in the heel, so you will never lock out using this method! Hammer on!

on 11/22/2005 You shouldn't have a locked-out leg, as any slight tension in the ITB will become noticeable and painful. You should have a slight flex of the knee at downstroke. Find this by pedaling backward with you heel on the pedal, it should just come off the pedal if the saddle height is wrong. Change it, before people get injured!