How to Install Baseboard
Changing the look of a room can be as simple as some changes in the trim work. Replacing baseboard is one easy place to start if you want to make a minor change to a room but still see a big difference.
- Difficulty:
- Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need
- Coping Saws
- Measuring Tapes
- Wood Putty
- Finish Nails
- Miter Saws
- Hammers
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1
Take measurements to get the linear footage needed to span the distance to be trimmed out. Add 10 percent to this figure for waste and mistakes.
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2
Select the style and finish you want for your new baseboard. There are a variety of shapes and sizes to choose from.
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3
Pick a style that suits your decor and personal taste. The finish that you put on should be purchased and applied before you start any cutting and fitting.
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4
Try to buy your trim in lengths that will need as few splices as possible. In some cases, splices are unavoidable, but the fewer there are the better the finished job will look. (Very long walls may have to be spliced - 14 to 16 feet is about the longest you will find in most trim pieces, and these longer pieces are more susceptible to warping and damage.)
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5
Stain or paint to your satisfaction. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
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6
Remember that with some baseboard you get the most finished look by applying "shoe molding" against the floor. Shoe molding is flexible quarter-round trim that can be bent enough to fit the contours of the floor.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Inspect all materials carefully. You want basebaord to be straight, with no warps or twists. Avoid knotholes, dings and rough spots.
All trim should be up around doors before putting up baseboard.
Remember that "shoe molding" is attached to the baseboard - not the floor.
Pre-drilling your nail holes prevents splitting of easily damaged trim pieces. Using "corner blocks" is another option. Corner blocks are pieces of wood trim used in the angle of both inside and outside corners.
Corner Blocking adds a more detailed decorative touch to the trim. It also reduces all corner cuts to simple straight cut "butt joints."
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Comments
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Sep 20, 2006
If a baseboard is cracked or in bad repair, it could be that there is a more fundamental problem occurring behind the existing board. When removing damaged baseboards that are unusually brittle or more in need of repair than adjoining baseboards, look out for mold, rot or other damage behind the baseboard. First pry away a small part of the baseboard to check the backing. Do not rip out these baseboards entirely until you have the means, skills or help lined up to replace and paint the part of the wall supporting the baseboard. Otherwise you may be left with an unsightly moldy problem that you were not set-up for or prepared to deal with right away. -
Sep 20, 2006
If a baseboard is cracked or in bad repair, it could be that there is a more fundamental problem occurring behind the existing board. When removing damaged baseboards that are unusually brittle or more in need of repair than adjoining baseboards, look out for mold, rot or other damage behind the baseboard. First pry away a small part of the baseboard to check the backing. Do not rip out these baseboards entirely until you have the means, skills or help lined up to replace and paint the part of the wall supporting the baseboard. Otherwise you may be left with an unsightly moldy problem that you were not set-up for or prepared to deal with right away.
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Feb 07, 2006
You can also use the same technique used for inside corner installation of chair rail or crown molding. The first run of baseboard has butt joints at both ends (90 degrees), so does the second run at the opposite end of the room. The remaining runs are cut at 45 degrees at both ends. You then use a coping saw to cut out the unpainted portion of the mitre at some angled degree past the painted portion effectively creating a knife edge that will cut into the baseboard initially put down. This will eliminate cracks and gaps in you joints caused by poor construction and dry winters.
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Dec 28, 2005
Try to create a nice, clean work area where the long baseboards can be supported level with the miter saw. Measure the desired wall and cut to fit, cut each end with a 45 degree miter cut, mark the back of each board showing which wall they are to be installed on. If the boards are too short, then two pieces can be connected by cutting at a 45 degree on the ends that meet, (keeping in mind that the over lapping end is to be away from the entrance to the room so it won't be noticeable). Once the boards are cut, mitered, dry fitted and marked to it's location, it can be painted. The best way to install the baseboards is with a brad gun, remember the bottom of the baseboard can be nailed into wall frame at any location providing it isn't above 2.250 inches. It's important to keep the baseboard straight, if the wall is not flat don't try to fit the baseboard tightly against the wall, allow it to continue straight and then fill the gaps between the wall and baseboard with dry wall caulking. It's also important to apply the caulking smoothly and with no bumps. Once the baseboards have been installed, you can touch up any nicks and scratches.
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Dec 28, 2005
Try to create a nice, clean work area where the long baseboards can be supported level with the miter saw. Measure the desired wall and cut to fit, cut each end with a 45 degree miter cut, mark the back of each board showing which wall they are to be installed on. If the boards are too short, then two pieces can be connected by cutting at a 45 degree on the ends that meet, (keeping in mind that the over lapping end is to be away from the entrance to the room so it won't be noticeable). Once the boards are cut, mitered, dry fitted and marked to it's location, it can be painted. The best way to install the baseboards is with a brad gun, remember the bottom of the baseboard can be nailed into wall frame at any location providing it isn't above 2.250 inches. It's important to keep the baseboard straight, if the wall is not flat don't try to fit the baseboard tightly against the wall, allow it to continue straight and then fill the gaps between the wall and baseboard with dry wall caulking. It's also important to apply the caulking smoothly and with no bumps. Once the baseboards have been installed, you can touch up any nicks and scratches.
