How to Winterize Plants
Frost is on the pumpkin, and the summer days of weeding and harvesting are a fleeting memory. But don't shelve the muck boots yet. For northern gardeners, late fall is a critical time to protect plants from hungry rodents and the worst of winter's cold temperatures and drying winds. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
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For trees, prevent bark-damaging sun scald by shading the southwest side of the trunk or by wrapping the trunk with commercial tree wrap. Young trees or thin-barked trees, including maples, birch, lindens and cherry, are the most susceptible to damage. Stop ravenous rodents from chewing on bark in winter by placing a cylinder of 1/4-inch( 2/3 cm) hardware cloth around the trunk. Leave 1 inch (2.5 cm) between the cylinder andthe trunk, extending it 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) below the ground and 18 to 24 inches (46 to 61 cm) above the anticipated snow line.
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For perennials, cover plants with a loose mulch of straw, pine needles or evergreen boughs after the ground freezes. This protects marginally hardy plants and those that need extra care from severe cold and freeze-thaw cycles that can destroy them. As temperatures warm in the spring, remove the mulch.
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For shrubs, protect evergreens from winter burn, which results in discolored and damaged foliage.Thoroughly water plants before the ground freezes solid. Shield them from sun with an open-top burlap wrap. Commercial anti-desiccant sprays may prove helpful.
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For your lawn, apply a winterizing fertilizer to promote deep, healthy root growth and build food reserves to speed spring growth. Fertilize when the grass is still green but no longer growing. If the soil is dry, water it to a depth of 1/4 to 1/2 inch (2/3 to 1 1/4 cm) after fertilizing.
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Tips & Warnings
Remove tree wrap in the spring so it won't restrict growth or become a haven for pests. Also remove rodent protection circling the tree trunk.
