How To Do Just About Everything
By eHow Home & Garden Editor
Rate: (9 Ratings)
Adding insulation can cut your utility bills significantly. Most homeowners can do the work themselves, reducing the costs of the project.
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Comments
Anonymous said
on 8/8/2006 Get:
- decent metalized tint
- a 3-4 inch squeegee
- a plastic card (sand edges smooth with 600 grit fine)
- a scraping blade and a utility knife
- spray bottle with Dawn dish soap (50:1 mix ,very warm)
- wax paper (cookie sheet paper)
- hair dryer
- excellent lighting
You must do this in a warm, clean and calm environment. Make sure your vehicle is clean inside and out and that the windows to be tinted are bladed and squeegeed.
1. Place wax paper against outside of window. Cut with utility knife to exact size.
2. On an absolutely clean table, lay out tint then wax paper on top. Cut to exact size. If tint is being applied on a roll up window, you need to set aside the wax paper and trim the sides 1/8 inch and the top 1/4 inch.
3. Have a buddy help you with this step. Make sure the window you're tinting is saturated with water mix. With tint laying on table, start removing the plastic that covers the sticky side. While doing this, have your buddy spray the sticky newly uncovered tint with the water mix. Lift tint in air making sure you only touch the edges and spray both sides of tint (generously) down with water. Have your buddy assist you moving the tint into vehicle and setting it against the wet glass (careful not to touch the sticky side against anything). Once placed on window accurately, you can do some cutting if needed to fit.
4. Start squeegeeing from center lightly and make sure the tint stays centered and saturated on outside. Take your time and use your finesse to effectively work water out from center.
If the window has large curve, you may need to use the hair dryer to warm up tint,(careful not to burn tint, keep 6 inches away) and work from center with generous water mix. Work squeegee as long as it takes to completely get all water mix out from under. (15 minutes -1 hour depending on size). Work edges if necessary with card to get tint under window guide seals.
Let the tint dry overnight in temperatures no less than 50 F. I've done quite a bit of tinting and with a little finesse you can achieve excellent results for very little money.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 This method was devised in order to facilitate the cutting of fiberglass insulation during the installation under a main floor. I was working in a three foot crawl space. I cut two pieces of 3/8 plywood 4 inches x 24 inches. I fastened the two together lengthwise. On one end was a hinge. On the other end was a spring loop. When I knew where I wanted to cut the insulation, I wrapped the two boards around the insulation thus closing the hinge. I then wrapped the stiff spring loop around the other end. The insulation was thus squeezed to about 1/2 inch thickness. I was then able to cut the insulation with relative ease. This apparatus had a leg at the right side equal in length to my forearm length. When cutting, the leg held up the right side, my left forearm held the left, thus leaving my right hand free to do the cutting.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 After trying everything to cut foil or paper-faced fiberglass insulation quickly and accurately, I devised the following method that works incredibly well. I place two parallel boards about 6 feet long between two saw horses, leaving a space of about 1/8 inch between them. Screw the boards to the tops of the saw horses with flat head sheet rock screws. Place the insulation over the two boards, paper side up, and use a serrated bread knife to saw the insulation to size. The blade of the knife is very accurately guided by the slit between the boards, and an absolutely square edge is obtained (since it is not necessary to compress the insulation when cutting). This method is about 4 times faster than any other method I have ever heard of. The knife I use is sold under the Oxo brand name, but any serrated blade would probably work as well.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Due to the rough surfaces of the studs, fiberglass batting snags the sides of the studs. This causes the batting to sit improperly in the opening. Use a large putty knife to slide along the rough edges of the studs as you place the batting in place, you can be assured the batting will slip in snug against the wall sheeting.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 A pair of sharp hedge shears works well for cutting fiberglass rolls.