How to Tie Into an Anchor

As a beginning climber, you'll need to know how to tie into an anchor constructed by a more experienced partner.

Instructions

Difficulty: Easy

Things You’ll Need:

• First Aid Kits
• Athletic Tapes
• Climbing Gear
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Helmets
• Climbing Ropes
• Climbing Shoes

1. Find a relaxing stance and rest your arms and calves when you reach your partner belaying you from above.
2. Examine the anchor your partner built.
3. Clip one of your locking carabiners to the same place in the anchor as your partner. If your partner specifies a different place for you to tie into, be sure there is a good reason.
4. Orient the locking carabiner so that the gate opens at the bottom and faces toward you.
5. Have your partner feed some slack through the belay device until you have enough to form a forearm-sized loop, or "bight."
6. Tie a "figure eight on a bight" by folding the top of the loop down and wrapping it one complete turn around the double strand of rope that forms the base of the bight, then push the doubled end back through the hole.
7. Tighten the knot and adjust it to the right length to support a portion of your weight as you dangle from the anchor.
8. Clip the loop above the knot to the locking carabiner.
9. Screw the gate of the locking carabiner shut.
10. Tell your partner that you are "off belay."

Tips & Warnings

• Try not to tangle the rope as you clip the anchor.
• Practice tying a figure eight before a climb to keep the pace brisk.
• Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.