How To

How to Remove a Stopper or Hex

Contributor
By eHow Contributing Writer
(1 Ratings)

Novice climbers often climb "second," after their partner has "led" the pitch. One of their jobs is to remove the protection - stoppers and hexes that act like metal wedges placed in cracks, attached to the lead rope to limit the leader's fall if she loses her footing.

Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Stoppers
  • Climbing Gear
  • Climbing Slings
  • Hexes
  • Nut Tools
  1. Step 1

    Try to find a good rest stance before you start fiddling with the stopper or hex your partner placed on lead.

  2. Step 2

    Look at the stopper or hex before you attempt to remove it. You can usually spot a widening of the crack above the constriction your partner used to hold the metal wedge.

  3. Step 3

    Remember not to disconnect the stopper or hex from the carabiner that's attached to the lead rope, or you may risk dropping it after you remove it.

  4. Step 4

    Try to wiggle the piece loose with your fingers. If it comes loose, retrace the widening path used to place the stopper or hex in the crack until it's out.

  5. Step 5

    Use your nut tool if the stopper or hex won't come loose with a wiggle or jerk: To use, unclip the tool from your equipment sling, and clip it to the rope near the stubborn piece of gear you want to remove.

  6. Step 6

    Tap the stubborn stopper or hex with the end of the nut tool until it comes loose. Then retrace the widening path used to get the stopper or hex in place.

  7. Step 7

    Ask your partner if there was a trick to the placement if you can't figure out how to get the piece out once you've loosened it inside the crack.

Tips & Warnings
  • Occasionally you'll encounter "fixed stoppers," meaning they're practically welded inside the crack, usually because they've held big falls. Most of the time you won't be able to get them loose, so don't waste too much time with them.
  • Use a hand-sized rock, a large stopper or hex to tap on the nut tool to loosen the protective device, especially for stubborn placements.
  • Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.

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