Making an Enamel Brooch
Enamel used in jewelry making is colored glass that is ground into a fine, colored powder and then applied to a piece of metal such as copper or silver. It is then fired in a kiln at very high heat to melt the powder and fuse it to the metal. There are varieties of enamel techniques, which yield very different results when complete. Making enamel jewelry is a rewarding hobby and you can create beautiful pieces for yourself or as gifts. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Mortar and pestle
- Colored glass
- Water
- Silver or copper sheet metal
- Jeweler’s saw
- Jewelry carving tools
- Metal compass (optional)
- Plastic transfer film
- Drawing paper
- Pen
- Pencil with eraser
- Carborundom stone
- Jewelry kiln
- Goose quill
- Small paintbrush (optional)
- Pumice stone
Instructions
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Draw your design on a piece of paper, perfecting it until you're satisfied. Start with something very simple.
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Cut and shape silver or copper sheet metal with a jeweler's saw and shaping tools.
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Solder fittings to the back of the metal for whatever piece of jewelry you're making.
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Grind the enamel under water in a mortar and pestle until the glass is a fine consistency. You'll end up with a suspension of enamel powder in water. You can also buy enamel powders preground.
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Transfer the design to a piece of plastic film made especially for the purpose and then to the metal with a small rubbing tool like an eraser on the end of a pencil. Alternatively, you can draw your design on the metal plaque freehand if you feel confident.
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Carve the design into the metal with a pointed jeweler's carving tool or the tip of a metal compass to make champleve enamel. In this type of enameling work, the enamel suspension is transferred with a small brush or a pointed goose quill into the depressions or cells made with the carving tool.
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Fire the brooch in a jewelry kiln to fuse the glass to the metal. The kiln should be heated to about 750 degrees Celsius for silver, or about 1000 degrees Celsius for copper.
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Remove the brooch from the kiln and allow it to cool.
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Apply additional layers of enamel and refire successively to build up the depth of color and create the finished pattern.
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Smooth the surface of the enamel with a carborundum stone, which helps the enamel bind to the edges of the metal.
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Fire the brooch for its final time after smoothing its surface with the stone.
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Polish the metal portion of the brooch under running water using a pumice stone.
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Tips & Warnings
If you want to make basse taille enamels, which are transparent, first engrave the surface of the metal with the proper metal engraving tools. Then paint transparent liquid enamel over the engraved portions to create an ethereal effect.
Applying several thin layers will help to prevent the enamel from cracking when it cools.
Don't over-fire your piece or you risk burning the enamel and ruining the item in the kiln. It only takes a few minutes to melt the enamel onto either silver or copper.
Staring directly into the fire in a kiln can damage your eyes. Wear protective eye ware when working with enamel.
Don't blow on the powdered enamel. It shouldn't become airborne because if it's inhaled, it can damage your lungs.
References
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
