How to Replace a Stone in a Trifari Pin

Replace stones in vintage pins with jewelry epoxy.

Founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari, the company began producing an elite line of costume jewelry pieces worn worldwide by popular celebrities and dignitaries. During the period between the 1930s and 1960s, the chief designer Alfred Philippe was renowned for his flawlessly designed pins using cut glass and nonprecious stones. Trifari pins come in various designs ranging from crowns to colorfully crafted insects and flowers. If you have a vintage piece that is missing a stone, you can replace a stone in a Trifari pin easily with a new stone from your local craft store or jewelry supply shop.

Things You'll Need

• Brass millimeter gauge
• Jewelry pliers
• Toothpicks
• Clean cloth
• Epoxy for jewelry
• Tweezers

Instructions

1. Measure the diameter of the empty casting with a brass millimeter gauge. This measurement will give you an estimate of the size of stone you can place in the casting. You can find these measurement gauges at jewelry supply and craft stores.

2. Bend back the prongs on the open casting with a pair of jewelry pliers. Hold the pin with one hand, bend one prong slightly back and move to the adjacent prong. Bend back this prong and move to the prong next to it. Bend it back and then bend back the adjacent prong.

3. Scrape off the dried adhesive on the setting with a toothpick. Wipe away any residue with a clean cloth.

4. Place a small dot of jewelry epoxy on the end of a toothpick. Press the epoxy onto the empty casting on the pin.

5. Grip the top of the stone, around the flat edge, with the tweezers. Set the stone straight down inside the casting onto the epoxy. Gently press the stone down with the tweezers.

6. Hold the stone with the ends of two fingers. Bend one prong on the casting back into place over the stone. Move to the adjacent prong and bend it back into place. Continue securing the prongs in this manner until all the prongs are tight around the stone.

Tips & Warnings

• Choose a stone to match the color of the other stones in the Trifari pin. Have several stones on hand to set in the setting without epoxy to test the desired look.

• Use clear-drying liquid cement for jewelry when you replace rhinestones or clear stones in your Trifari pin.

References

• Azillion Sparklz Vintage Costume Jewelry: Cleaning and Repair Tips
• Collectors Weekly: Vintage Trifari Costume Jewelry

Resources

• Azillion Sparklz Vintage Costume Jewelry: Standard Shapes of Stones