How Is an Epingle Weaved?
Epingle fabric is woven on a wire loom and is a type of high-quality velvet with a loop and cut pile that may be woven into the same piece of fabric. The fabric is heavy and often used today for upholstery, but in medieval times it was used to make clothing for kings, princes, bishops, cardinals and the pope. Epingle fabric was first made in Genoa and Lucca, Italy, and is now more commonly manufactured in Belgium.
Instructions
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Thread the warp, or lengthwise yarn, onto the loom according to the manufacturer's directions.
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Insert the weft, or crosswise yarn that goes over and under the warp, from the left side of the loom. If you are using an automatic loom, the weft will be threaded back and forth automatically to create the loop pile. However, if you are weaving by hand, you will have to move the weft back and forth from left to right to create the pattern in the fabric.
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Set the speed of the machine lower to accommodate the motion of the wires and the weight of the yarn. The speed will be dictated by the width of the machine. Check the manufacturer's manual for the exact settings.
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Form the loops in the pile by weaving over the wires, fixing the pile into the base fabric. The wires are woven into the fabric to form the loops, depending on the size of the fabric and the loom. As one wire is inserted into the fabric to form a loop, the next is removed, forming alternating rows that make the pile for the epingle. The pile wires are made to create a specific pile height. If the wires have a blade attached for cutting, then cut pile is formed rather than looped pile. Some epingle fabrics contain both cut and looped pile for variation and texture.
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Tips & Warnings
Adding color additional frames will supply varied colored loops and cut piles for texture and dimension on your fabric.
Cutting wires can cause injuries. Use caution around these looms when making epingle fabrics.
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