How to Hem Denim Jeans & Get a Hem Roll

Hem jeans so they have even rolled cuffs.

Hemming long denim jeans ensures a good fit. A proper hem can also change the style of the jeans, such as turning long jeans into calf-length pants or shorts. A standard hem is required, even if you plan to roll the cuffs. A properly sewn hem prevents the denim from fraying and unraveling during wear and laundering. Once hemmed correctly, you can create a permanent roll on the cuff of your jeans that stays in place without coming undone or sagging.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Fabric chalk
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• Denim needle
• Heavy-duty cotton thread

Instructions

1. Determine the width of the desired hem roll. For example, a 1-inch roll for standard length jeans. Multiply the roll width by three and add 1 inch to this number to determine the hem measurement. For a 1-inch roll, the hem measurement is 4 inches.

2. Turn the jeans inside out. Mark a chalk line around the bottom of the jeans at the desired length of the jeans after rolling. This measurement must be at least the same distance from the existing bottom hem as the hem measurement determined for your roll.

3. Measure down from the chalk line to the hem measurement. Make a second chalk line at this location. Cut off the excess leg fabric at this chalk line.

4. Fold the jean leg up 1/2-inch. Fold up a second time by 1/2-inch, catching the raw edge of the denim inside the fold. Machine stitch along the top of the fold to hold it in place. Make a second line of stitching along the bottom edge of the fold.

5. Turn the jeans right side out. Roll the hem over twice . The top of the rolled hem should be even with the top first chalk line on the inside of the jeans.

6. Top stitch along the inseam stitching on each jean leg, from the bottom of the roll to within one-quarter inch of the top. Press the rolls to crisp the folds and help hold the roll in place.

Tips & Warnings

• Don't stitch the inseams unless you want the jeans permanently rolled. Leaving the seams unstitched allows you to unroll the jeans if you need them longer. For example, wearing rolled jeans as capris and unrolling them for standard length jeans.

• Only use a denim needle or a machine needle made for sewing thick fabrics. Standard needles bend and snap when sewing through jeans.

References

• Sewing and Craft Alliance: Hemming Jeans