How to Sew a Lolita Skirt

This type of Victorian bell skirt inspired the Lolita cupcake skirt.

The Lolita fashion movement originated in Japan, and was inspired by the clothing of both the Victorian and Rococo periods. Although there are several different Lolita variations, there are consistencies among the skirts of the styles. They are usually knee-length, give or take a few inches, and are cut into the cupcake style, with lots of extra fabric that can be filled and puffed with petticoats.

Things You'll Need

• Fabric
• Measuring tape
• Chalk
• Scissors
• Pins
• Needle
• Thread
• Sewing machine
• Lace trim
• Hooks and eyes
• 5-inch zipper

Instructions

1. Measure around your waist with the measuring tape. Make sure you can comfortably slip two fingers between your waist and the measuring tape so you will have some breathing room in your new skirt. Cut a strip of fabric to this length, with a width of 4 inches.

2. Fold the strip in half, with the print facing inward. Pin, if necessary, and sew the long raw edges together, leaving the raw edges on the end open. Turn the strip inside out, so the print is facing out. Press the strip so it lies flat, with a strong crease. This is the waistband of your skirt.

3. Add 12 inches to the waist measurement and divide the new number by four. Use this divided number to cut four panels, with this number as the width, and a 15-inch length. Fold the ends of each panel and sew the folds to create hems.

4. Thread the needle and make quick running stitches along one hem of each panel. When the stitches run the length of the fabric, press the panel out flat, and then pull the thread through another 3 inches. Back stitch and knot the thread. Use your fingers to even out the rising and falling of the fabric over the thread, and press to create strong creases. This will make it a little easier to attach the panels to the waistband.

5. Press two panels together so the raw side edges line up, and the gathered hems are side by side. Pin one set of raw edges together. Place another panel on top of one of the attached panels, print to print. Pin into place. Repeat this step with the last panel.

6. Take the skirt to your machine and stitch the panels together. Remove the pins as you work.

7. Lay the skirt out, print-side down, and adjust the gathering, if necessary. Place the waistband under the gathered hem of the skirt and pin it into place. Carry it to your machine and stitch the waistband onto the skirt. Remove the pins, as you go.

8. Stitch, from the bottom, the last two panels of the skirt together, leaving the top 5 inches open. Place the zipper in the opening, and pin it into place. Stitch the zipper permanently to the skirt. Sew one or two hooks and eyes to the waistband to help the zipper remain securely up while you are wearing your new skirt.

9. Stitch wide lace trim to the bottom of your skirt, both the inside and the outside. Your Lolita skirt is finished, but you can make the "cupcake" look fuller by wearing a petticoat or two beneath the skirt.

Tips & Warnings

• Measure the general 15-inch length on your own body, and add or subtract a few inches, if you prefer.

References

• Lolita Fashion: What is Lolita?

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish
• Gothic Lolita Advice: How to Make a Lolita Skirt Pattern