How to Quilt a Jacket

Quilting each piece before assembling the jacket ensures a proper fit.

Quilted jackets are a great way to show off your love of quilting with an item you can wear. They are also warm and comfortable, just like quilts made for a bed. However, it can be a challenge to produce a well-fitting quilted jacket that's not too boxy or bulky. The secret is to quilt each jacket piece before assembling the completed garment. You'll need to leave some extra fabric to quilt and seam the garment. Show off your piecing skills or your favorite quilting design with this fool-proof technique.

Things You'll Need

• Jacket pattern
• Fabric for outer layer (single fabric or quilted blocks)
• Thin batting or flannel
• Backing fabric
• Sewing machine
• Fabric marking pen
• Pins
• Thread for sewing and quilting

Instructions

1. Select a jacket pattern. Because quilting will create additional bulk, choose a pattern designed for thick or heavy fabrics to ensure a flattering style.

2. Mark the pattern on the fabric you want for the outer layer. If you choose a pieced design for the outer layer of the garment, piece and assemble enough blocks to equal the size of fabric called for in the original pattern, plus additional fabric to leave at several inches between pieces when laid out on the fabric. For example, if the pattern calls for two yards of fabric, piece together enough blocks to equal the dimensions of two yards, plus additional fabric left over. You'll need to determine how much extra, based on the particular pattern you have selected.

3. Mark any dots or notches required by the pattern on each piece.

4. Cut out the pieces, leaving about two inches around the perimeter of the pattern. The additional fabric makes it easier to quilt each piece, and any additional fabric will be cut away before assembling the garment.

5. Cut out the flannel and backing fabric, using the pattern pieces already cut from the outer layer.

6. Mark your quilting design on the top layer of fabric. Make sure to leave at least five-eighths inch seam allowance from the pattern line unquilted, and avoid quilting too close to the seam allowance.

7. Layer each piece, starting with the backing fabric; lay this face down, then lay the batting and the outer layer of fabric right side up. Baste each piece as you would for any quilted item. Start at the center and smooth and pin toward the edges.

8. Quilt each piece separately. The closer your quilting seams are, the stiffer the finished jacket will be. For a softer, fluffier result, quilt with seams further apart.

9. Pin the original pattern pieces on the finished quilted sections. Trim each piece as necessary.

10. Assemble the jacket according to the pattern instructions. Pin the right sides together, but fold the backing fabric away, stitching seams only through the outer layer and the batting. The backing fabric will be used later when finishing the seams.

11. Trim the excess batting or flannel close to the seam allowance. Trim the outer layer fabric to a quarter-inch. Unpin the backing fabric. Fold one layer across the seam. Fold the layer from the other side under by a quarter-inch, pin it across the seam, then use a hand-stitch to completely enclose the batting layer inside the seam allowance.

    This finishing technique makes the jacket reversible. You can choose to seam the pieces together normally, if you do not desire a reversible garment.

12. Hem the garment. Cut the batting a half-inch shorter than the fabric to reduce bulk at the hem. Fold the inner and outer fabrics under a half-inch, and stitch one-eighth of an inch from the edge to secure.

13. Clip any remaining threads.

Tips & Warnings

• Kimono-style jackets are a good choice because they have few pieces and offer a large area on the back to highlight your quilting designs.

• Choose to focus on either your skillfully pieced top layer or an elaborate quilting pattern, rather than both.