How to Hem Satin
Rich, glossy, luxurious satin adds elegance to garments, curtains or bedding. Originally woven of silk, modern satin is also made of acetate, cotton or polyester in a range of fabric weights. While the finish is beautiful, the nearly imperceptible nap and the weave make satin vulnerable to creases, snags and frayed edges. Most satin items are lined with a lighter fabric, ideal for using a catch stitch on a hem. However, unlined pieces and flared or curved hemlines require a rolled hem finish. Controlling this fabric is easier and fewer pins are needed when stitching a hem by hand.
Things You'll Need
- Sharp scissors
- Fine dressmaker sewing pins
- Flexible lace seam tape
- Sewing machine with new needle
- New hand sewing needles, size 10 to 12
- Fine silk thread
- Iron
- Press cloth
Instructions
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Blind-Stitched Hem
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1
Pin the seam tape to the right side of the fabric and the lining along the bottom raw edges, leaving a 1/8-inch overhang past the edge. Cut the tape end half an inch past the start point. Fold that end under itself and pin. Stitch the tape to the fabric along the inside edge of the tape, backstitching to the folded end to stitch it together.
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2
Fold the hem to the correct depth and pin the seam tape to the lining only, easing the fabric evenly as it's pinned. Check the hemline for puckers and make needed adjustments. Check a new hand sewing needle for burrs by rubbing it on a scrap of satin before threading it with fine silk thread.
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3
Knot the thread ends and insert the needle under the inside edge of the seam tape. Take a couple of stitches to anchor the knot. Insert the needle into the lining fabric directly under the inside edge of the tape, catch a few threads, and bring it out at the edge of the seam tape. This will hide stitches. Keep the stitches about one-quarter inch apart and knot the thread when finished.
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4
Press the finished hem on the wrong of the item, using a press cloth and setting a dry iron on the lowest heat. Hang the item immediately to avoid creases and wrinkles.
Hand-Rolled Hem
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5
Thread a new sewing needle with matching thread, pull the ends even and knot the thread. Insert the needle under a seam allowance at a side seam to bury the knot and take a couple of stitches to anchor the thread.
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6
Hold a length of fabric taut with one hand and roll the fabric edge inward until the stitching line touches the main body of the fabric. Catch a couple of threads from the main fabric, insert the needle through the fabric roll no more than one-quarter inch and bring it out at the inner edge of the fabric roll.
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7
Continue stitching around the outer raw edge of the item, catching only a couple of threads from the main body of the garment without pulling the stitches tight. Take an extra stitch in the rolled fabric every 10 or so stitches to anchor the thread.
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8
Anchor the last stitch by burying a couple of knotted stitches under the rolled hem when reaching the start point. Trim the thread tails close to the knot. Lightly press the hem on the wrong side, using a dry iron set on the lowest heat and a press cloth. Hang the item at once to avoid creases or wrinkles.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Hang a garment or item for up to three days before hemming or squaring off raw edges to allow the fabric to settle naturally.
Strips of sew-in interfacing can be used in place of seam tape.
Stop raw edge fraying by machine sewing a line of straight or zigzag stitches close to the edge before hemming.
Match the thread color to the fabric to reduce signs of stitching.
Take loose hem stitches to avoid dimpling the fabric.
Don't press satin fabric using an iron set on steam; any moisture will permanently stain the fabric.
Coarse or textured fabrics used as press cloths will leave indentations in satin.
Don't pull hem stitches tight; it will create puckers in satin.
Don't use pressure when ironing satin; the pattern on the iron's surface will leave indelible impressions in the fabric, even through a press cloth.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Brand X Pictures/Brand X Pictures/Getty Images
