How to Drape Fabric for a Skirt

Create your own rack of skirts that fit perfectly every time.

Carefully crafting clothing for your body can make a huge difference in how well it fits and looks. A skirt, for example, that has been properly draped prevents a skewed hemline and makes the overall look of the outfit cleaner and neater. Clothing bought off the rack has all been made from the same pattern, but bodies are not "one size fits all," and sometimes adjustments must be made to compensate for differences in waists, hips and derrieres.

Things You'll Need

• Dress form
• Fabric pen
• Tape measure
• Fabric
• Scissors
• Elastic
• Pins

Instructions

1. Place a pin or use a pen to mark the spot on the fullest spot on the dress form's hips where your side seam will hit to ensure that you will measure the fabric accurately when cutting the panels for the back and front of your skirt.

2. Measure from one side to the other at the fullest part of the hips or tummy. Add 2 inches for a seam allowance. This is the horizontal measurement of the front panel of your skirt.

3. Measure from one side mark to the other across the fullest point of the dress form's bottom. Add 3 inches as a seam allowance. This is the horizontal measurement of the back of your skirt. The back of the skirt will be two panels sewn together with a seam and a zipper placed in the center.

4. Wrap a piece of elastic around the waist and another piece around each leg where you would like the hem to rest. For example, a hem that rests just at or below the knees is perfect for professional wear. Measure from the elastic around the waist to the elastic around the legs. Add 4 inches as a seam allowance. This is the measurement for the length of the front panel.

5. Measure from the back of the waist to the elastic on the legs. Add 4 inches as a seam allowance. This is the measurement for the length of the back of your skirt.

6. Mark the measurements for each panel with a fabric pen and cut them out along the fabric's lengthwise grain.

7. Slip the top 2 inches of the front panel under the elastic around the waist with the print facing inward, and straighten the fabric from the top until the bottom hem is parallel to the floor. The top of the panel will probably not be straight, but this is okay for now.

8. Slip the back panels under the elastic and straighten them, one at a time from the top, until the hems are parallel and aligned with the front panel.

9. Smooth the fabric at the waist, beginning in the front center, and moving outward. The fabric will bunch up under the elastic, and you can fold and pin this extra fabric to create pleats or completely smooth it out until just one fold remains on each side. You can place a seam here and cut away the excess fabric later. Pin the back panels together and repeat this process.

10. Fold the raw edges of the front and back panels together and pin them in place so that you create a clean, straight seam. Cut away the excess fabric at the seams.

11. Pin the back panels of fabric together and fold the top and bottom of the fabric down to create hems. Your skirt is now completely draped to fit your body, and is waiting for you to stitch together and wear.

Tips & Warnings

• Draft a sewing buddy to help you drape the skirt on yourself instead of a dress form for an even better fit.

References

• Threads Magazine: Drape a Skirt Sloper