How to Retrace the Path of Oncoming Waves
Anyone who's visited the beach is familiar with the effect of a wave. However, the physical principle underlying ocean waves manifests itself in many forms. A wave is the transfer of energy through matter without permanently displacing that matter. This fact is apparent in the effect of ocean waves: The water is jolted up and down but comes to rest at more or less the same position, as the wave energy carries onward toward the shore. You can use a derivation of the wave formula, (∂^2u)/(∂t^2) = ∇c^2(u), to trace the path of oncoming waves.
Instructions
-
-
1
Input the value of u, which is the frequency of the wave.
-
2
Determine the duration, t, for which you want to trace the wave path.
-
-
3
Calculate ∂, the partial derivative, based on Steps 1 and 2, wherein ∂u/∂t is equal to f(u) or ∂^2 + ∂u + u^2.
-
4
Input the value of c, the wave's amplitude (the distance between its crest and its trough, or its highest and lowest points as it moves through space.)
-
5
Solve for ∇, which is the Laplatian operator, a differential operator used in physics. To solve, isolate ∇ by dividing both sides by c^2(u). The result is the mathematical expression of the wave path.
-
1
References
- Physics of Waves; William Elmore; 1985
- Photo Credit Photos.com/AbleStock.com/Getty Images