Sewing a Coat Hem
Coat hems go up or down with the latest fashion trends, but what's most important is how the length looks on you. Some may need to shorten every garment they buy, while another person might hope for enough fabric to let the hem down and still hope for a finished look. Whichever situation you may have, there are a few points that can make the alteration to your coat look as good as they day you bought it.
Other People Are Reading
Instructions
-
Preparation
-
1
Find a helper and a full length mirror. There are ways around this, but a helper simplifies the process and helps guarantee a more quality end result.
-
2
Try on your coat in front of the mirror. Determine the proper length and have your helper mark it with pins, starting at a seam line. Measure up from the floor to the initial marking, and mark a line with pins all the way around the hemline following that measurement.
-
-
3
Remove the old hem by carefully tearing out the stitching. If the new hem is short enough you can omit this step and cut above the old hem. Otherwise, clear away the threads from the old stitching and press the old crease flat with an iron. Cut away excess fabric with the scissors so you still have enough to turn up the hem twice, sparing about 2 inches.
-
4
Turn the hem up three-quarters inch and press with an iron. Turn up the hem again, this time to the desired new length for the coat, about 1 inch. Press, pin and double check the length.
Hem the coat
-
5
Hand-stitch the seam closed using a basic hemming stitch. Thread a needle and secure a knot on one end of the thread, leaving the other end loose. Start at the opening of the coat by piercing the needle through the folded hem from the inside, between the coat and the folded hem. Pull the thread through so the knot is secured between the folded hem and the inside of the coat, with the needle and thread coming out at the top edge of the folded hem.
-
6
Catch a few threads with the needle on the inside of the coat, just above where the previous stitch surfaced securing the knot in the folded hem. Pull the needle through and again, pierce the folded edge of the hem, this time one-eighth inch from the first stitch. Run the needle through the inside of the fold half inch and pull through.
-
7
Repeat this process, while only catching a few threads from the inside of the coat each time. Finish the stitching by piercing the fold and pulling the needle part way through. Wrap the thread around the end of the needle twice and pull it through to tie a secure knot. Press flat with an iron to give a crisp fold to your new hem.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
If the coat is lined, cut the lining so it is half-inch longer than your hem line so you can tuck the raw edge inside the hem when it is sewn shut. This alleviates the need to sew another hem.
Save time by using a blind stitch on a sewing machine if you have the option.
Try to avoid piercing all the way through the fabric to the front side of the coat. If this isn’t possible then only catch a few threads on the outside of the coat.
When pressing with an iron, avoid circular or sideways motions as this will likely throw the hem out of kilt. Instead, press in an upward tapping motion and try to smooth out any excess bulk or creases in the hem.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Brand X Pictures/Getty Images
