How to Make a Trapeze Sweater

Knit a trapeze sweater in any of three sizes by following the same set of directions.

Those darling “A-line” sweaters and jackets from the 1950s have made a comeback. They are known as trapeze sweaters or swing jackets because they are fashioned to flare out in an “A” shape. Short sleeved or long, trapeze sweaters are perfect for layering over a dress, a turtleneck, a T-shirt or a tank top, making them a versatile piece for your wardrobe. Finding a trapeze sweater in a clothing store or online is easy, but it’s also easy to knit or crochet one. Making one gives you more color selections and you’ll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

Things You'll Need

• 4 (5,6) skeins of mid-weight yarn, 4 ounces each, color of your choice
• 1 pair each of size 6 and size 8 knitting needles
• Tape measure
• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• 1 button, 3/4 inch in diameter
• Needle
• Thread, colored to match yarn

Instructions

Back Panel

1. Cast on 99 (108,113) stitches onto the size 6 needles.

2. Knit every row until your piece measures 2 inches. Change to the size 8 needles at this point.

3. Knit in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for the rest of the piece, decreasing 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together at both ends of every sixth row 9 (9,0) times.

4. Decrease 1 stitch on each end of every eighth row 0 (0,7) times. You should have 81 (90,99) stitches left at this point.

5. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the piece measures 12 inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side (purl) row.

6. Decrease 9 (10,11) stitches, spaced out evenly throughout the row. You will have 72 (80,88) stitches left. Place markers on each end for the armholes.

7. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the back panel is 8 (8 1/2, 9) inches from the armhole markers, ending with a wrong side row. Bind off.

Left Front Panel

1. Cast on 48 (52,54) stitches onto the size 6 needles.

2. Knit every row until your piece measures 2 inches. Change to the size 8 needles at this point.

3. Knit in the stockinette stitch for the rest of the piece, decreasing 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together at the beginning of every sixth row 9 (9,0) times. The decreases should be done on right side rows only (the knitted rows, not the purled rows).

4. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every eighth row 0 (0,7) times. You should have 39 (43,47) stitches left at this point.

5. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the piece is 12 inches long from the beginning. End with a wrong side (purl) row.

6. Decrease 5 stitches, spaced out evenly throughout the row, by knitting two stitches together. You should have 34 (38, 42) stitches when you are finished with this row.

7. Place a stitch marker to denote the armhole. Continue working in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 4 (4 1/2, 5) inches from the armhole marker. End with a right side row.

8. Shape the neck by binding off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next wrong side row. Purl across the rest of the row.

9. Knit 1 row.

10. Bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Purl across the rest of the row.

11. Knit 1 row.

12. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every wrong side row 6 times. You should have 22 (26,30) stitches left.

13. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the piece measures the same as the back panel, ending with a wrong side row. Bind off.

Right Front Panel

1. Cast on 48 (52,54) stitches onto the size 6 needles.

2. Knit every row until your piece measures 2 inches. Change to the size 8 needles at this point.

3. Knit in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for the rest of the piece, decreasing 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together at the beginning of every sixth row 9 (9,0) times. The decreases should be done on right side rows only (the knitted rows, not the purled rows).

4. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every eighth row 0 (0,7) times. You should have 39 (43,47) stitches left at this point.

5. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the piece is 12 inches long from the beginning. End with a right side (knit) row.

6. Decrease 5 stitches, spaced out evenly throughout the row, by knitting two stitches together. You should have 34 (38,42) stitches when you are finished with this row.

7. Place a stitch marker to denote the armhole. The armhole on this piece should be on the opposite side from the armhole on the left front panel. Continue working in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 4 (4 1/2, 5) inches from the armhole marker. End with a wrong side row.

8. Shape the neck by binding off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next right side row. Knit across the rest of the row.

9. Purl 1 row.

10. Bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Knit across the rest of the row.

11. Purl 1 row.

12. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every right side row 6 times. You should have 22 (26,30) stitches left.

13. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the piece measures the same as the back panel, ending with a wrong side row. Bind off.

Finishing and Sleeves

1. Sew the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders using the tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

2. Pick up 72 (77,81) stitches onto the size 8 needles evenly spaced between the armhole markers. Do this with the right side of the sweater facing you. It doesn’t matter if you start with the right sleeve or the left, as they are worked the same.

3. Knit in the stockinette stitch until the sleeve is 3 inches long, ending with a right side (knit) row.

4. Bind off and repeat the sleeve step for the other side.

5. Pick up 72 (74,77) stitches onto the size 6 needles evenly spaced between the left neck edge and the lower edge of the left front panel. Do this with the right side facing you.

6. Knit 7 rows, then bind off. Repeat the edge finishing for the right side.

7. Pick up 94 stitches onto the size 6 needles evenly spaced around the neck edge. Do this with the right side facing you.

8. Knit 1 row, purl 1 row, then bind off as you knit the next row.

9. Sew a button onto the sweater at the top of the right panel on the edging using the needle and thread. A button hole doesn’t need to be created in the left panel band, as it can be buttoned into a gap between stitches.

10. Thread any loose yarn ends into the tapestry needle and weave them back into the body of the sweater.

Tips & Warnings

• The instructions listed here are to make a small-sized trapeze sweater. The numbers in the parenthesis note changes to the pattern if you want to make a medium or large sweater.

• With patterns like this, where you need to keep track of rows and how many times you perform a decrease or an increase, it is helpful to get a row counter. These are available in yarn specialty shops and in craft stores as well. Some are like peg boards and some are like rotating dials that have numbers on them. They are a valuable tool to keep you from losing your place while knitting.

• You can save time and ensure that the front panels match by knitting them both at the same time. You should use separate skeins of yarn, one for the front and one for the back, but they can both be cast on to the same pair of knitting needles at the same time.

References

• Red Heart; Free Patterns; Simple Spring Swing Cardigan Knitting Pattern;
• Knitting Pattern Central; Pattern Search; Swing Jacket

Resources

• Lion Brand; Free Crochet Pattern; Summer Swing Jacket
• Custom Knit Jackets: Casual to Couture; Jean Frost, Elaine Rowley, Rick Mondragon and Alexis Xenakis; September 2011