How to Hem a Knit Top

Single, double or rib knits are made from cotton, linen, wool or synthetic fabrics.

Knit fabrics -- such as fleece, velour and jersey -- stretch across the grain of the fabric. This feature requires a hem that will stretch with the fabric. A coverstitch machine, or serger with the coverstitch feature, produces the most professional look. But a regular sewing machine or serger also can be used to adequately hem knits.

Things You'll Need

• Coverstitch machine, sewing machine or serger
• Machine needle, size 11 or 14
• Polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread

Instructions

Coverstitch or Serger Coverstitch Hem

1. Determine the length of the hem. Try on the knit top, on a person or dress form, and mark the length with pins. Lay the top on a flat surface, and cut away the excess material.

2. Use a coverstitch machine, or select the coverstitch setting on your serger to hem your knit top. Set the machine thread tension control between 3.5 and 4.5 and the stitch length dial to 4. Insert two size 11 or 14 needles, and thread the machine with polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread. Set the differential feed control to more than 1, to aid in feeding the fabric through the machine. Raise the cutter lever, to prevent cutting the fabric while sewing.

3. Fold the raw edge over 1/4 inch, and feed the fabric, face up, through the machine. Align the left machine needle with the folded edge of your fabric as you sew. When complete, lift the presser foot and pull the needle threads forward a few inches with a sewing needle, thin screwdriver or Allen wrench.

4. Cut the thread and pull it through to the underside of the fabric, with a sewing needle.You will now have four pieces of thread on the underside of the fabric -- two from the beginning and two at the end of your sewn hem. The threads will not unravel or come loose. The coverstitch creates a hem, consisting of two parallel rows of topstitching on the top side and a zigzag stitch on the underside of the fabric.

Sewing Machine Hem

1. Determine the length of the hem. Try on the knit top, on a person or dress form, and mark the length with pins. Lay the top on a flat surface, and cut away the excess material.

2. Set the thread tension control between 4 and 5 and the stitch length dial to 4. Insert a size 11 or 14 needle, and thread the machine with polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread. Raise the feed dog or differential feed control, to aid in feeding the fabric through the machine.

3. Set the sewing machine to an overedge stitch setting. The overedge stitch creates a zigzag stitch with a parallel, straight stay-stitch -- to form and finish the stitch in one operation. Sew along the raw edge of the knit top until you have sewn the entire exposed edge. Use the sewing machine's reverse stitch switch, to back stitch and prevent raveling.

4. If the sewing machine is not equipped with an overedge stitch, zigzag stitch or serge the raw edge, then set the sewing machine to straight stretch stitch. Sew a straight stretch stitch alongside the top of the zigzag or serged stitch, to simulate the overedge stitch.

5. Turn the overedge stitching under 1/4 inch, and pin in place. Set the sewing machine to straight stretch stitch. Begin sewing the top side of the knit top, 1/8 inch from the folded hem, until you have completed the hem. Use the sewing machine's reverse stitch switch, to back stitch and prevent raveling.