How to Sew Interfacing

Interfacing makes garments look better on the hanger and the body.

While some of the techniques used by clothing manufacturers aren't readily duplicated by those sewing at home, interfacing helps your garments drape properly on the body. The material is available at fabric stores for those sewing at home. Interfacing is often applied at waistlines, collars, cuffs and button plackets. While fusible interfacing is a common choice for those sewing at home and in industrial settings, interfacing that is sewn in may be more suitable for certain fabrics or projects.

Things You'll Need

• Interfacing
• Fabric
• Iron
• Scissors
• Sewing gauge
• Straight pins
• Thread
• Sewing machine

Instructions

1. Use the same fabric you are using for your garment as interfacing for very sheer fabrics. The interfacing should not be as heavy as the fashion fabric and should not show through the fabric. Launder and press the fabric according to the manufacturer's directions.

2. Cut out the facing piece from the fabric. If you are using a pattern, this piece will be labeled. The facing is a small piece of fabric that is sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the body. Use the facing pattern piece or the facing itself as a guide to cut out the interfacing.

3. Place the cut interfacing piece on top of the facing. Pin the two together in the center. Use the sewing gauge to measure 1/8 inch in from the cut edge of the facing. Mark this line all the way around the piece of interfacing.

4. Trim the interfacing so it is 1/8 inch smaller than the facing piece all around. Mark the edge of the facing to be attached to the garment. On the remaining edges, press or fold and pin the facing edge over to envelop the edge of the interfacing.

5. Thread the sewing machine and stitch the fold in place. Sew the facing to the garment at the unsewn edge.

Tips & Warnings

• You can add facing and interfacing to a garment whose pattern does not call for it, but you will need to create your own pattern piece for the facing.

• Note the care instructions for the interfacing, and make sure they match those of your fabric. You can destroy interfacing that is laundered in the wrong way.

References

• University of Kentucky: Interfacing
• New Mexico State University: Selecting Interfacings, Underlinings and Linings
• Sewing with Nancy; Sewing A to Z Part 2