How to Sew a Horsehair Hem

A slightly stiff hemline creates a graceful silhouette.

Hemlines help shape and support a garment’s structure. For example, a hemline sewn with flexible horsehair braid adds a graceful fullness to skirts and dresses. Horsehair braid contains a ribbon of nylon threads. A drawstring at the top edge helps contour the hem allowance. Purchase packages or pieces cut from rolls at a sewing supply store. Some suppliers may offer colors that match your garment. The finished hemline shows only a fine line of top-stitching on the garment’s right side.

Things You'll Need

• Horsehair braid
• Iron
• Tailor’s chalk or washable pencil
• Scissors
• Needle and thread

Instructions

1. Steam press the horsehair braid to reduce creases.

2. Mark the hemline on the garment’s right side with tailor’s chalk.

3. Place the garment right-side up on a flat surface. The garment’s underside will face the flat surface.

4. Trim the hem allowance to 1/4 inch below the hemline.

5. Align the top of the horsehair braid at the hemline, beginning at a side or back seam. Tuck under the starting end to line up with the side or back seam.

6. Thread a needle and sew temporary, straight basting or running stitches to attach the braid close to the hem markings.

7. Bring the garment and braid to the sewing machine. Select a straight stitch on the machine’s pattern selector.

8. Edge stitch the braid’s top edge. Tuck under the braid’s last end to abut the starting end. This finishing end will also line up with the side or back seam.

9. Fold the braid along the hemline to the underside or wrong side of the garment. The braid will not show on the right side.

10. Edge stitch the braid on the garment’s wrong side, joining all the layers. If you prefer, flip the garment and top stitch the garment’s right side close to the hem fold through all the layers. Backstitch a few stitches at the end to secure the threads.

11. Thread a needle. Tack the braid’s abutted edges and seam allowances together with a cross-stitch. Use two straight stitches angled to form an X shape. Knot the thread. Hide the thread’s tail in the seam allowance. Trim the excess thread.

12. Whipstitch the abutted edges below the cross-stitch. Knot the thread and trim.

13. Remove the temporary basting thread.

14. Press the hem carefully using the heat setting that best suits the fabric.

Tips & Warnings

• Keep the iron, needles, scissors and other potentially hazardous objects away from small children.

References

• Denver Fabrics: Horsehair Braid Hem
• Digital Changeling: Hems

Resources

• Burda Style: Create Fullness in Skirt Hem