How to Knit Sweater Sleeves

A woman with prominently displayed sweater sleeves.

Adding a sleeve to a sleeveless top pattern, or to a pattern that you are creating from scratch, can be accomplished with a little math and a little planning. Using the dimensions of the existing sweater, as well as the knitter's own body measurements, the knitter can determine the width and length of the sleeve necessary.

Things You'll Need

• Yarn
• Needles of size indicated on the yarn label
• Needles one size smaller than size indicated on yarn label (optional)
• Measuring tape
• Calculator

Instructions

1. Determine the total circumference of your sweater. Read your sweater pattern and add up the total number of stitches comprising the front and back of the sweater. Include both fronts if your pattern is a cardigan.

2. Decide if you wish to knit long sleeves or 3/4 length sleeves. For long sleeves, plan to cast on 20 percent of the total body stitches. For example, if you have a sweater body with a total of 200 stitches, plan to cast on 40 stitches for the sleeve cuff. For 3/4 length sleeves, plan to cast on 25 percent of the total body stitches.

3. Calculate the number of stitches you will need at the top of your sweater sleeves by calculating 33 percent of the body stitches. This calculation is the same for all sleeve lengths.

4. Calculate your row gauge by measuring the number of rows in four inches of knitting. Divide this number by four in order to determine your row gauge per inch. If you have not yet knit the body of your sweater, you will need to knit a gauge swatch at least five inches square in order to measure your row gauge.

5. Determine the finished length you wish your sleeve to be. For most adults, long sleeves are about 18 inches in length. Determine the length of the main part of the sleeve by subtracting the length of any cuff you wish to add to your sleeve from the total sleeve length. For example, if you wish to add a three-inch ribbed cuff, subtract three from 18 to get 15 inches of length for the main part of the sleeve.

6. Multiply the number of inches in the main part of the sleeve by your row gauge to determine how many rows will be in the main sleeve. Subtract the number of stitches at the top of the sleeve from the number of stitches at the bottom and divide this number by two to determine the number of increase rows that must be worked. Divide the number of rows in the main sleeve by the number of increase rows needed to determine how many rows must be worked between the increase rows. To make keeping track of the number of rows between increase rows easier, round down to the nearest even number so that increase rows will only be worked on the right side of the knitting.

7. Cast on the number of stitches desired for the bottom of the sleeve. Knit any cuff as desired, using smaller needles if desired. Change to larger needles and knit one row less than the number of rows determined in Step 6 as the number of rows between increases. Work an increase row on the next row as follows: knit one, increase one stitch by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch, knit across to the last two stitches, increase one stitch by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch, and knit the last stitch. Continue to increase as established until your sleeve has the number of desired stitches. Knit, without increasing, until your sleeve measures the desired length.

8. Work a sleeve cap. The sleeve cap style must be suitable for the type of armhole on the sweater. If your sweater body is straight at the sides without any decreasing at the armholes, you may simply bind off all stitches at the top of your sleeve. If your sweater has an angled or rounded armhole, you must knit an angled or rounded sleeve cap. Use an existing knitting pattern as a template to help you determine the height and rate of decreases for your sleeve cap.

9. Knit a second sleeve the same as the first.

Tips & Warnings

• Take careful notes about how you knit the first sleeve so that you can make the second one exactly the same.

• Even numbers are easier to work with than odd numbers. When calculating the number of stitches or rows, round to the nearest even number when possible.

References

• "Knitting Without Tears"; Elizabeth Zimmerman; 1971
• Lion Brand Yarn: Learning to Knit: Making a Gauge Swatch
• Lana Grossa: Knitting Tip - Converting Patterns
• "Knitty"; Ravellings on the Knitted Sleeve -- Part I; Jenna Wilson; Fall 2004

Resources

• Craft Yarn Council: Standard Body Measurements