How to Do a Hidden Stitch for Hand Applique

Visible stitches make a beautiful appliqué project look unprofessional.

Hand applique requires a sewing a decorative piece of fabric to a background piece of fabric. It is difficult to sew even, visible stitches on appliquéd items; a professional look requires hidden stitches. The type of stitch is called a blind stitch. Quilters and seamstresses are familiar with this stitch; it is an important tool in their hand applique work. The stitch is easy to learn and the polished outcome is worth the time it takes to master.

Things You'll Need

• Size 10 or 11 sharp needle
• Thread to match the applique piece
• Scissors
• Fabric applique piece
• Iron
• Background fabric
• Pins

Instructions

1. Thread your needle with a single piece of thread and knot the other end.

2. Cut out your appliqué piece with an additional ¼-inch seam allowance. Prior to sewing, fold the seam allowance under and iron it flat so the raw edges are not exposed.

3. Push your needle up under the background piece of fabric to pierce the folded edge of the appliqué piece. The thread should not be visible on the top of the appliqué.

4. Bring the needle out through the folded edge and pull the thread as far as it will go. Place your needle into the background fabric, just on the other side of your new stitch, and pierce the fabric, going all the way through to the underside.

5. Stitch all the way around your appliqué, making stitches 1/16th-inch apart. Keep your stitches tiny and inspect your work as you go. If you make a visible stitch, rip it out before you get too far.

6. Push the needle to the back of the background fabric when you are finished and knot the thread.

Tips & Warnings

• Pin the applique to the background fabric before sewing it in place. If you are using more than one applique, pin them all to the fabric to make sure you like the placement. If your appliqué piece is curved, clip just up to the seam allowance before ironing. This will aid in ironing the seam allowance flat with no messy bumps and bulges.

References

• The Quilter's Cache: Learn to Applique
• "Fa La La Felt"; Amanda Carestio; 2010