How to Attach Sleeves to a Shirt With a Sewing Machine or Serger

Sewing in sleeves requires a steady hand and careful planning.

Sewing sleeves into a garment properly means the difference between a comfortable garment and one in which you cannot raise your arms. Your sewing pattern may direct you to sew the side seams of the garment before sewing in the sleeves, but sewing the sleeves beforehand gives you greater control over how the "extra" fabric gets worked into the armhole.

Things You'll Need

• Sewing pattern
• Fabric
• Scissors
• Iron
• Straight pins
• Thread
• Sewing machine or serger
• Seam ripper

Instructions

1. Press your fabric according to the manufacturer's directions. Cut out all pattern pieces for the chest and sleeves.

2. Sew the shoulder seams according to the pattern directions. Press open the seam allowances. Identify the collar-facing end and the armhole-facing end of the shoulder seam.

3. Locate the middle of the sleeve cap, or the top peak of the sleeve. Align this with the shoulder seam, placing the pieces right sides together. Pin the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam at the armhole-facing end. Pin the top of the sleeve to the front and back sides of the armhole. Repeat for the other sleeve.

4. Thread your sewing machine or serger. Place the shirt under the presser foot of the sewing machine with the sleeve against the feed dogs.

5. Use a straight stitch (on sewing machines) or flatlock or safety stitch (on sergers) to stitch the top of the sleeve to the shirt. Remove the pins before they go under the needle. Repeat for the other sleeve.

6. Remove the shirt from the sewing machine or serger. Arrange the shirt so that the sleeves are folded in half, and the sides of the shirt meet, right sides together. Pin the shirt at the sides, starting at the hem and stopping at the end of the sleeve.

7. Use a straight, flatlock or safety stitch to stitch the sides of the shirt and underside of the sleeves together, stopping at the end of the sleeve. Sew on remaining parts according to your pattern's directions.

References

• "Sewing for Dummies" Jan Saunders Maresh; 2004
• Sewing and Craft Alliance: Serger Stitches
• Sewing and Craft Alliance: Set in Sleeves