Sewing an Elastic Casing
Elastic allows a garment to comfortably move with the body, adjusting to minor changes in weight. It also makes gentle folds in the fabric more easily than any other method. One of the simplest ways to apply elastic to clothing or other fabric items is to make what’s called a self-casing. This simply means that you fold over the existing fabric and stitch it into place with the elastic inside it. This is the most common form of elastic casing found on commercial sewing patterns and in ready-made clothing.
Instructions
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1
Determine how much elastic is needed by holding the elastic around the part of the body where it will ultimately lie. For example, if sewing an elastic waistband, place the elastic around the waist, stretching it slightly. Then add an additional inch.
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2
Determine the width of the casing by adding 1/4 inch to the width of the elastic. For example, if the elastic being used is 1/2-inch thick, the casing should measure 3/4-inch wide.
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3
Mark where the fabric will be folded down to form the casing. You can find this information on a commercial pattern, or by trying on the garment and marking where the waistline, for example, should sit on the body.
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4
Fold the top of the casing fabric down 1/4 inch, wrong sides together, and press with an iron.
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5
Fold down the casing, wrong sides together, where marked in step 3. Press with an iron.
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6
Run a row of stitches along the base of the casing, where 1/4 inch of the fabric is folded under. Leave an opening of about 1/2 to 1 inch at the center back.
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7
Run a row of stitches along the top of the casing, where the fold is, about 1/8 inch from the edge.
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8
Safety-pin one end of the elastic to the casing, at the opening.
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9
Insert another safety pin on the opposite end of the elastic and place inside the casing. From the outside of the casing, push the safety pin all the way to the opposite side of the garment, until it comes out of the center back opening.
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10
Pin the elastic ends together, overlapping by 1/2 inch. Stitch them together.
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11
Close the opening of the casing with hand-sewn slip stitches.
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1
Tips & Warnings
If, for some reason, there isn’t enough fabric to make a self-casing, an applied casing is suitable. Simply trim the fabric to fit, plus 3/4 inch, then cut another piece of fabric the correct length and width. (Remember to make it 1/4-inch wider than the elastic used, plus 1/4 inch.) Stitch the additional fabric to the garment, right sides together, using a 3/4-inch seam. Then turn under the additional fabric, following steps 4 through 11.
References
- The Vogue Sewing Book: 1970
- Sewing: Easy Waistband Casings
- Sewing Answers: How Do You Add an Elastic Waistband?
