How to Do a Fretboard on Steel Guitars

How to Do a Fretboard on Steel Guitars thumbnail
Steel-guitar fretboards are mounted on the body of the guitar.

A lap steel, or steel guitar, is similar but distinct to a standard guitar. The main difference between a guitar and steel guitar is that the steel guitar is designed to be played laid across your lap. Lap steel guitars are designed specifically for use with a slide, which is why the typical steel guitar fretboard is significantly wider than that of a standard guitar. By making your own steel guitar fretboard, you can customize your instrument to suit your playing style.

Things You'll Need

  • 1 hardwood plank, 20 inch by 2 inch by 1/4 inch
  • Scrap wood plank of equal length and width
  • Planer
  • 600-grit sandpaper
  • 600-grit radius sanding block
  • Sharp pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Slotting file
  • Fretboard inlay dots
  • Handheld plunge router
  • Bench clamp
  • Fret wire
  • Glue
  • Glue brush
  • Jeweler's hammer
  • Snub-nose nippers
  • Metal file
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Instructions

    • 1

      Plane both sides of the plank so they are straight and parallel. Once planed, sand one side with 600-grit sandpaper. This is the back.

    • 2

      Sand the top with the radius sanding block. Radius sanding blocks leave a curved radius on the surface. This curve will be barely discernible by eye but will improve the playability of the fretboard.

    • 3

      Mark out your fret spacings. The amount of frets you use is a matter of preference. However, the amount of frets influences the required distance between each fret. If incorrectly spaced, the pitch difference between frets will be inaccurate, making it impossible to stay in tune. Use a fret-spacing calculator if you are unsure.

    • 4

      Place the inlay dot in the center of the first fret. Draw around it to create an outline. Repeat this for every odd-numbered fret except 11 and 13. Instead, plot an inlay dot at fret 12.

    • 5

      Measure the depth of the inlay-dot material.

    • 6

      Release the guide lever on the router. Set the depth guide on the handheld plunge router to the depth of the inlay dot. Reset the guide lever. The depth guide prevents the router from cutting any deeper than required.

    • 7

      Route a hole for each inlay dot. Don’t go right up to the line. Instead, leave an approximately 1/16-inch gap. Then use a piece of 600-grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil to sand to the line. This prevents you from routing too large a circle.

    • 8

      Glue each inlay dot into its hole.

    • 9

      Place the scrap wood on top of the fretboard and clamp it down for two hours. This holds the inlay dots in place as the glue sets.

    • 10

      Cut a piece of fret wire for each fret. Cut each piece to a length 1/8-inch longer than the width of the fretboard. This extra length gives you something to grip as you insert the wire.

    • 11

      Remove the fretboard from the clamp.

    • 12

      Make a 1/16-inch-deep slot for each fret, using the pencil marks as a guide.

    • 13

      Apply a thin layer of glue to the tang of the fret wire with the glue brush.

    • 14

      Lower the fret wire into the groove. Drive it firmly in with a jeweler’s hammer. Snip off the excess wire with snub-nosed nippers. File down the edges with a metal file. File at a 45-degree angle to create an attractive bevel. Repeat this process for every fret.

Tips & Warnings

  • If you want to add varnish to the fretboard, do so before fitting the fret inlays.

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References

Resources

  • Photo Credit Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images

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