How to Sew an Elizabethan Corset

The Elizabethan corset was essential to the look and style of the period.

A distinctive feature of Elizabethan costuming is the corset. The Elizabethan corset was not meant to make a tiny waist, but to give a somewhat barrel-shaped figure that supported a farthingale. Elizabethan corsets, by most accounts, are comfortable and provide good back support. A well-made Elizabethan corset is not uncomfortable to wear for a day of fun at the local Renaissance Faire.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Pattern paper
• Ruler
• French curve
• 3 yards fabric
• Fabric marker
• Busk material
• Boning material
• Wide bias binding
• Awl
• Cord

Instructions

Preparation

1. Choose a heavy fabric such as cotton duck or canvas, or a sturdy linen. Do not choose synthetic fabrics. Pick your boning material. Purchase plastic or steel boning online, or an inexpensive modern alternative is cable ties which can be found at hardware stores; if you wish to use a more period-appropriate alternative, try reeds or hemp, since whalebone is no longer available. Make your own busk from a thin, flat piece of wood, or purchase one online.

2. Start your pattern by taking measurements of the waist, bust, waist-to-underarm, and front from the bustline to 3 inches below the waist. Divide the waist and bust measurements in half and, then subtract 1 inch.

3. Fold the pattern paper in half. Draw a vertical line the length of the last number along the folded edge of the paper. Draw a straight horizontal line that length from the top of the vertical line. Draw a vertical line 1½ inches long on the left side of the horizontal line. Find the center of the horizontal line and measure 2 inches to the left. Make another vertical line 2 inches long at that point. Measure 2/3 of the distance from that point to the folded edge. Make a mark on the horizontal line at that point. Use a French curve to make a gently curving line from the bottom of the 1 ½ inch line to the bottom of the 2 inch line to the mark at the top.

4. Draw a straight horizontal line 3 inches up from the bottom of the vertical line at the folded edge the length of the final waistline number. Draw a slanted line from the center back bustline to 1 inch below the left end of the waistline. Divide the waistline into fourths and mark each quarter. Make a mark 1 inch above the halfway mark. Use the French curve to connect all the marks. Cut the pattern out and try it around you. There should be a 2-inch gap at the back.

Making the Corset

1. Cut two layers out of the fabric, centering on the straight of the fabric grain. Pin the two layers together and mark the channels for the boning and the busk. The channels should be at least ¼ inch wider than your boning material and your busk. The boning channels should be evenly spaced, with eight in the front and four on each side of the back. The last one should be no more than ½ inch from the back opening.

2. Sew along the marked lines. Insert the boning material and the busk. On the inside, tuck the top opening down about ¼ -inch, so the busk can be removed for laundering. Finish all the raw edges with the bias tape.

3. Use the awl to make evenly-spaced holes along the back opening on the other side of the last boning channel, so it lends support. Holes should be about 1½ inch apart. Make a buttonhole stitch all around each hole, and use the cord to lace the corset from the bottom up.

Tips & Warnings

• Add shoulder straps if you want.

• Use grommets instead of eyelet holes for the back lacing.

Resources

• The Elizabethan Corset Page
• The Renaissance Tailor: Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: Corsets