How to Drywall with Bullnose
Drywall tape is suitable for taping flat seams and inside corners, but it isn't strong enough to protect outside corners. For these, you have two options. The first is to use metal corner beading, which makes a sharp, 90-degree edge. The second option is to use bullnose to give the corners a smooth, rounded edge that works well with a monochromatic color scheme. Bullnose is available in both metal and plastic, and while the initial installation is different for the two varieties, the technique you use for finishing is the same for both of them. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Tape measure
- Hacksaw
- Utility knife
- Drywall hammer
- Drill with no. 2 Phillips bit
- 5/8-inch drywall nails or screws
- Drywall joint compound
- 4-, 6-, 8- and 10-inch drywall blades
- 120-grit sandpaper
Instructions
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1
Install the drywall to outside corners that you plan to bullnose so there is a gap of 1/4 to 1/2 inch between the sheets. Don't overlap the sheets at the corners because slight variations at the edge may make it more difficult to fit the bullnose.
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2
Measure the height or length of the corner you need to cover with a tape measure and cut a suitable length of bullnose. Use a hacksaw to cut metal and plastic bullnose. If you're using plastic bullnose with paper tape edges, cut the paper with a utility knife or simply tear it.
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3
Install metal bullnose by fitting it around the corner and nailing the edges with drywall nails or screwing them with drywall screws. Space the fasteners about 6 inches apart, and if you have to overlap two pieces of bullnose to cover the corner, drive a fastener into the overlap. Screws have the advantage of being resistant to popping out after installation, and using them could save you a future repair job.
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4
Spread a layer of drywall joint compound, or mud, on both sides of the corner with a 4-inch drywall blade if you are using plastic bullnose with paper tape edges. Moisten the paper, then set the bullnose into position and push the paper into the mud. Scrape the paper in the same way you would scrape any drywall seam, then let the mud dry overnight.
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Lay a topcoat of mud over the seams on either type of corner with a 4-inch blade and scrape it flat, running the edge of the blade along the corner so the surface of the fresh mud doesn't protrude beyond it. Don't try to completely fill the edges with a single coat, or the mud may crack. Several light coats are preferable to a single heavy one.
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Let the mud dry overnight, then lay a second topcoat and scrape it with a 6- or 8-inch blade. Repeat with another topcoat, scraping with a wider blade than the one use used before. The goal is to produce a flat surface that feathers into the wall and transitions smoothly into the bullnose corner.
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Sand the final coat lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.
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Tips & Warnings
It's important to prime fresh drywall, and especially fresh mud, before you paint it. The primer seals the paper and mud and provides better adhesion for the paint.
Some bullnose comes with self-adhesive edges that you can simply stick or staple to the wall and then cover with joint compound.
Handle metal bullnose carefully. If you bend it lengthwise, the bullnose surface will kink, and you may have a hard time hiding the kink on the finished wall.
References
- Photo Credit Creatas Images/Creatas/Getty Images
