How to Make a Bustle Cage

The bustle cage was most popular in the Victorian era.

The bustle cage was worn in the back of long skirts or dresses with trains during the Victorian era. Constructed of steel hopes and fabric, this accessory is popular today with brides,"Gothic" or "Punk" fashion enthusiasts and actors. The curving enclosure creates a vintage look when added to the back of a skirt or dress. Considered
old fashioned lingerie, they are hard to find. However, seamstresses sew them with readily available patterns to suit individual wardrobe needs.

Things You'll Need

• Sewing machine
• Sewing thread
• Steel hooped bones
• White muslin or white broadcloth fabric
• Eyelet or color coordinated fabric for ruffling
• Shoe laces of cotton ribbon
• Scissors

Instructions

Construction

1. 

   Cut the largest pieces first when assembling the pattern.

   Take the choice of either broadcloth or muslin fabric and fold fabric from salvage edge to salvage edge. Place largest piece of pattern upon fabric and pin. Cut along edge of the pattern in a horizontal direction or length wise until the first section is completed.

2. 

   Lay the pattern on the fabric according to instructions.

   Move the pattern over along the stretched out fabric and repeat the process three separate times.

3. 

   Pin and cut out the fabric to begin the sewing process.

   Refold the remaining fabric and place the additional pattern pieces on the fold. Pin and cut out fabric according to pattern directions.

4. 

   Sew the petticoat using bias tape for boning lines.

   Sew together top front panels putting fabric on the right sides, seaming three quarters
   along the seam. Take angle shaped pattern pieces and sew fabric. Mark the boning lines
   on the right side of the fabric on these pieces.

5. 

   Stitch the panels together while matching the sides of fabric.

   Sew the bias tape along the boning lines on the marked fabric to create boning channels.
   Stitch the top front panel to the top back panel. Match up sides of fabric about half an inch
   inseam and sew a seam.

6. 

   Drape and measure the waist area for a custom fit.

   Measure the circumference of the pin-fold padding and divide the number by three. Mark the back of the fabric for flouncing. Gather the top of the flounce area and run the stitching to create the flounce. Baste and sew the waistband right under the gathering stitch with raw edges together into the top of the bustle cage.

7. 

   The bustle cage emphasizes the femine silhouette.

   Put metal tips on the boning. Slip the boning into the boning channels in the inside of the
   bustle cage. Attach shoe laces or cotton ribbons with a zig zag stitch to the ends inside the
   panel. Pull and tie securely together to allow the bustle cage to stick out. Roll down the overlay with the ruffles on top of the framing skeleton form.

Assembly

1. 

   Ruffle designs on the bustle cage are individually styled.

   Draw lines for a ruffle design on the bottom of the back of the fabric. Choose the same
   material or a contrasting color for the ruffles. Cut the number of fabric strips according to the design and roll in the material approximately one quarter of an inch at the top.

2. 

   The Victorian bustle cage accentuates the womanly shape.

   Sew in the in-fold edge to join the ruffles with a gathering stitch. Baste or tact ruffles in random places to avoid the ruffles from lifting.

References

• Fathom: The Secret History of the Corset and Crinoline Section Three
• Mantua-Maker; The Mantua-Maker Historical Sewing Patterns Bustle Draping Techniques; Deb Salisbury; 2011
• SparklyJem: Day-to-day crafting, living, & design notes; SparklyJem; July-August 20ll