How to Sew an Overdress

If you have a simple dress pattern, you can make an overdress to go with it.

An overdress is a thin, gauzy dress you wear over another more opaque dress. It can have the same pattern or a slightly different pattern. Keep the basic shape of the dresses simple, however, as you are highlighting the see-through qualities of the fabric in the overdress. Moreover, choose the colors for the two dresses so they enhance each other rather than compete.

Things You'll Need

• Simple A-line dress pattern, such as Kwik Sew 3160
• Lightweight fabric such as chiffon or lace
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Cutting mat (optional)
• Sewing machine
• Thread

Instructions

1. Trace the pattern for the overdress one size larger than you made the underdress, which will make it easier to fit the overdress over the underdress — especially around the bust, waist and hips. You may want to draw the shoulder and neckline at the same place, however, to avoid having the dress slip off the shoulders. Wash your fabric and dry it in the same manner in which you intend to launder the garment.

2. Lay lightweight fabric such as chiffon or lace on the cutting table or the floor. If the fabric is slippery, you may find it helpful to put a towel or sheet on the table or floor to make it easier to cut and pin the fabric without it slipping. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, press it lightly, then lay out and pin the pattern pieces onto the fabric. Cut out the pieces with scissors or a rotary cutter. A rotary cutter may work better with slippery fabric, but it will require a cutting mat underneath the fabric.

3. Pin the front of the overdress to the back at the shoulder, and stitch the two pieces together with a sewing machine and thread. Finish the neckline in the way the pattern directs with a facing or seam binding or a collar. Pin the front to the back at the side seams, and stitch. If the dress is long and straight, you may want to leave a side vent of several inches at the bottom of the side seam.

4. Stitch the sleeve underarm seam if the dress has sleeves. Baste across the top of the sleeve arm. Pull up the basting stitches to ease the sleeve into the arm hole, then pin and stitch. Finish the bottom of the sleeve as the pattern directs, with a hem or cuff.

5. Put on the underdress and then the overdress. Have a helper pin the hem of the overdress at the right place. You can have it slightly shorter than the underdress if you like. Take off the overdress, then stitch and press the hem.

Tips & Warnings

• If your fabric is sheer, you may want to use French seams — enclosed narrow seams — to sew the overdress. Stitch the seam with the wrong sides together, then stitch again, with the right sides together, with the raw edges of the first seam enclosed within the second seam.

References

• "Vogue Sewing, Revised and Updated"; Vogue Knitting Magazine; 2008