How to Lay Hardwood Flooring Upstairs
Hardwood flooring is laid on upper floors in essentially the same way as on a ground floor. The main issue to start with is to make sure the boards are running across the floor joists and not in the same direction as the joists. The boards are laid from one end of the room to the other in courses that are positioned so that the ends are offset, giving them a natural and random look. Start with a smooth, solid subfloor. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Felt underlayment
- Stapler
- Utility knife
- Chalk snap line
- Tape measure
- Hardwood tongue-and-groove floor planks
- Drill
- Pilot bit
- Screwdriver bit
- 1 1/4-inch brass wood screws
- Pneumatic floor nailer
- Miter saw
- Table saw
Instructions
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1
Determine the position of the floor joists under the second floor. If there is existing wood-plank flooring, the joists will generally be running perpendicular to it underneath. If there’s a plywood subfloor, the nail patterns in the plywood will show the joist orientation. If there’s a drop ceiling on the lower floor, looking up inside it can answer the question. The original blueprints of the house will also show the joist direction.
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2
Lay felt underlayment over the floor in rows that overlap slightly at the edges. Shoot staples every few feet to hold it down.
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3
Set a starting a line for the flooring along the wall where you want to start the floor, which should be a wall perpendicular to the direction of the joists (so the boards will run across the joists and not in the same direction). Set the chalk line half an inch out from the wall.
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4
Lay a hardwood floorboard on the line at one end so the grooved edge is facing the wall. This will leave a half-inch space between the board and the wall.
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5
Drill pilot holes every 12 inches along both edges of the board, using a drill and pilot bit. Switch to a screwdriver bit and drive brass screws in each of the holes to secure the board.
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6
Set another board off the end of the first one, locking them together by their tongue-and-groove milling. Screw it down in the same way. Repeat the process, laying the whole first course of boards along the line. Cut the last piece on a miter saw as needed.
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Set the next course of boards alongside the first, linking them by their tongue-and-groove fittings. Instead of top-screwing the second (and subsequent) boards, shoot nails through the sides, at an inward angle, from just above the tongue.
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8
Repeat, working across the floor course by course, offsetting the ends of the boards so they’re “staggered” between the courses and not lined up.
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9
Cut the last course of boards lengthwise, as needed, to fit at the ending side of the floor. Use a table saw. Leave a half-inch space by the wall. Top-screw the boards of the final course as you did the boards of the first course. Floor trim will cover the spaces.
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