How to Build a Header Around Pipes

How to Build a Header Around Pipes thumbnail
Pipes and vents are generally exposed in a house's unfinished basement.

An unfinished basement often holds the key to additional living space in a home. Cosmetic touch ups can give it a finished look, such as covering exposed water or gas pipes that run along the basement ceiling with a header or soffit. This box enclosure made with 2-inch by 4-inch lumber--commonly called 2x4s--and drywall isn't difficult if you have some basic skills with saws, hammers and nails. Does this Spark an idea?

Things You'll Need

  • Ruler or measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • Level
  • Chalk line
  • 2-inch by 4-inch lumber
  • Framing nails
  • Framing nail gun (optional)
  • 2 1/2-inch drywall screws
  • Drywall sheets
  • Utility knife
  • Corner bead for drywall
  • Drywall tape
  • Drywall joint compound
  • 6-inch taping knife
  • Sanding block or sandpaper
  • Dust cloth
  • Air vent (optional)
Show More

Instructions

  1. Determine Enclosure's Location and Size

    • 1
      Use a level and pencil or snap a chalk line to mark installation measurements.
      Use a level and pencil or snap a chalk line to mark installation measurements.

      Mark the size of your intended soffit on the wall and ceiling. Measure down two inches from the lowest pipe that you want to cover and run a level pencil or chalk line horizontally across the wall to allow space for the framing and drywall. Also mark a vertical line at the end of the soffit.

    • 2

      Snap another line on the bottom of the ceiling joists parallel to the wall with a 2 1/2-inch clearance from the furthest obstructing pipe for the outer edge of your soffit.

    • 3
      Lumber names aren't exact lumber sizes. A "2x4" is usually about 1 3/4 inches by 3 1/2 inches.
      Lumber names aren't exact lumber sizes. A "2x4" is usually about 1 3/4 inches by 3 1/2 inches.

      Cut three wall and ceiling plates from 2x4s according to the measurement length marked on the wall.

    Building the Header or Soffit

    • 4

      Position the bottom of one 2x4 along the chalk line on the wall as a nailing strip. Nail the board into the studs.

    • 5

      Attach the second 2x4 to the ceiling studs along the outer marked lines using a framing nail gun or drywall screws.

    • 6
      A miter-saw makes precise cuts, which prevents gaps in your connections.
      A miter-saw makes precise cuts, which prevents gaps in your connections.

      Cut crosspieces that are the height marked on the wall minus the thicknesses of the installed ceiling plate and the third 2x4 board that will complete the outer box frame. Nail crosspieces vertically on 16-inch centers to the unattached 2x4. These crosspieces will provide a surface for attaching the drywall.

    • 7

      Lift and attach the box frame to the ceiling plate using 2 1/2-inch or longer drywall screws.

    • 8

      Cut 2x4 crosspieces to fit between the wall-mounted 2x4 and the outer frame. Nail or screw crosspieces on 16-inch centers perpendicular to the wall having lower edges level with the bottom of the 2x4s.

    Finish with Drywall

    • 9
      Score the face of the drywall with a utility knife, snap it backward, then score the back paper to complete the cut.
      Score the face of the drywall with a utility knife, snap it backward, then score the back paper to complete the cut.

      Transfer the dimensions of your boxed-in frame onto the sheets of drywall using a tape measure and a pencil. Cut the drywall using a straight edge and a utility knife.

    • 10

      Apply the drywall to the 2x4 framework using the drywall screws.

    • 11

      Install the corner bead along the edges of the drywall for smooth, finished corners.

    • 12

      Tape the drywall seams with the paper drywall tape. Fill in the nail head depressions and cover the taped seams with drywall joint compound. After the walls are completely dry, use the sanding block or sandpaper to smooth any rough or uneven places.

    • 13

      Wipe any remaining dust from the surface and paint as desired.

Tips & Warnings

  • To preserve future access to pipe joints or valves, frame around them with 2x4s and cut out the opening when you drywall. You can add an air vent to finish the opening after the work is completed.

  • Use a pencil to mark the location of the studs of your soffit frame. Mark these studs on the ceiling or the wall next to each stud so that when the drywall is placed over top of the frame, you'll be able to identify the location of each stud.

  • The completed soffit box can be heavy. Use a helper, rent a drywall or cabinet support tool, or use special clamps to hold the frame while you screw or nail it to prevent strain on your back.

Related Searches:

References

Resources

  • Photo Credit Comstock/Comstock/Getty Images Polka Dot Images/Polka Dot/Getty Images Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images

Comments

Related Ads

Featured