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How to Replace Patio Stones, Tiles and Pavers

First, let's sort out a few terms: Any piece used to pave a patio or walkway can be called a paver, though sometimes the word is used specifically for small concrete or (more traditionally) granite paving blocks. As for stones, we're talking here mostly about flagstones, which are about 2 inches (5 cm) thick and irregular in shape. Tiles come in square or other geometric shapes, and they're usually thinner than flagstones or pavers. Whatever type of surface you have--and whatever you call it--how you repair it will be most determined by whether it is set in mortar or is simply resting on a sand base.

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    Difficulty:
    Challenging

    Instructions

    Things You'll Need

    • 2-by-4 Scrap
    • Mortar Box Or Wheelbarrow
    • Work Gloves
    • Fine Sand
    • Broom
    • Garden Hose
    • Stiff Nylon Brush
    • Tiles Or Flagstones
    • Chalk
    • Safety Goggles
    • Bolster Chisel
    • Carpenter's Level
    • Cold Chisel
    • Flathead Screwdriver Or Pry Bar
    • Mason's Hammer
    • Mason's Trowel
    • Pointing Trowel
    • Rubber Mallet
    • Tamping Tool
    • Mortar mix, or cement and sand
    • Replacement pavers,
    1. Repairing a surface set in sand

      • 1

        Wearing work gloves, remove damaged or displaced pavers with an old screwdriver or a pry bar.

      • 2

        Spray water on the exposed sand base.

      • 3

        Tamp down the sand with a tamping tool.

      • 4

        Add a thin layer of fine sand, water lightly and tamp again until the sand layer is very slightly above the bottoms of the other pavers.

      • 5

        Beginning in a corner of the open space, install one of the pavers. Tap on top of the paver with a rubber mallet until it is flush with the adjoining pavers, and check it with a level. Pick up the paver, and add or remove sand below for any necessary adjustments; replace the paver.

      • 6

        With the mallet, gently tap the sides of the paver so that it is snug against all adjoining pavers.

      • 7

        Install remaining pavers in the same way.

      • 8

        Sprinkle fine sand over the repaired area and sweep the sand into the cracks. Rinse the entire surface.

      Repairing a surface set in mortar

      • 1

        Remove damaged paving stones, using a pry bar or a cold chisel and a mason's hammer, if necessary.

      • 2

        Chisel off the remaining mortar from the exposed base and from the edges of adjoining pavers.

      • 3

        Lay down the new pavers in place as a dry run to make sure they fit properly, then set them aside. If you're using flagstones, cut any pieces to fit as necessary (see "Cutting flagstones to fit a space").

      • 4

        Put dry premixed mortar (or a mixture of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand) in a mortar box or wheelbarrow. Mix in water a little at a time until the mortar is the consistency of mud.

      • 5

        Wet the surface you'll be working on. Don't work on more than 4 to 6 square feet (1.2 to 1.8 square m) at a time, and start working in a corner if you can.

      • 6

        With a mason's trowel, lay down a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mortar where the new pavers will go.

      • 7

        Use a short 2-by-4 wood scrap to smooth the mortar until it is level.

      • 8

        Place the paving units in the mortar, checking frequently to make sure they are level and flush with adjoining pavers. If a paver is a little too high or is raised on one side, tap it lightly with a rubber mallet (see A); if it's too low, pick it up and add some mortar before replacing it.

      • 9

        When all the pavers are placed, fill the joints between them with another batch of the same mortar mix, using a small pointing trowel (see B). You can leave this mortar flush with the tops of the pavers, or use the trowel to recess it slightly.

      • 10

        After 3 to 4 hours, brush off any excess mortar using a stiff nylon brush.

      Cutting flagstones to fit a space

      • 1

        Draw a chalk line across the part of the stone that needs to be removed. Flip over the stone and continue drawing the line on the other side.

      • 2

        Place the stone on a surface that is firm but not too hard, such as a lawn or a bed of sand.

      • 3

        Wearing safety goggles, tap along the line with a bolster chisel and a mason's hammer. Tap back and forth along the line several times.

      • 4

        Flip the stone over and do the same on the line on the other side.

      • 5

        Turn the stone over again, and hit on the line with gradually increasing force until a strong blow breaks off the piece.

    Tips & Warnings

    • To protect your hands, always wear work gloves when handling stones or working with concrete and mortar.

    • On a patio, consider leaving unpaved a space 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) across and planting a shrub or small tree there.

    • Remember to lift heavy objects--whether a stone or a sack of concrete--by bending your knees and lifting carefully, and not by bending your back and risking injury.

    • Wearing steel-toed work boots is always a good idea if you'll be moving a lot of stones. At least be sure to avoid wearing sneakers-- or open-toed sandals!

    • When you're cutting or trimming stones, always be sure to wear safety goggles.

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