How To

How to Replace Patio Stones, Tiles and Pavers

Contributor
By eHow Contributing Writer
(12 Ratings)

First, let's sort out a few terms: Any piece used to pave a patio or walkway can be called a paver, though sometimes the word is used specifically for small concrete or (more traditionally) granite paving blocks. As for stones, we're talking here mostly about flagstones, which are about 2 inches (5 cm) thick and irregular in shape. Tiles come in square or other geometric shapes, and they're usually thinner than flagstones or pavers. Whatever type of surface you have--and whatever you call it--how you repair it will be most determined by whether it is set in mortar or is simply resting on a sand base.

From Quick Guide: Building Walkways
Difficulty: Challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • 2-by-4 Scrap
  • Mortar Box Or Wheelbarrow
  • Work Gloves
  • Work Gloves
  • Fine Sand
  • Broom
  • Fine Sand
  • Garden Hose
  • Stiff Nylon Brush
  • Tiles Or Flagstones
  • Chalk
  • Safety Goggles
  • Bolster Chisel
  • Carpenter's Level
  • Cold Chisel
  • Flathead Screwdriver Or Pry Bar
  • Mason's Hammer
  • Mason's Trowel
  • Pointing Trowel
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Safety Goggles
  • Tamping Tool
  • Mortar mix, or cement and sand
  • Replacement pavers,

    Repairing a surface set in sand

  1. Step 1

    Wearing work gloves, remove damaged or displaced pavers with an old screwdriver or a pry bar.

  2. Step 2

    Spray water on the exposed sand base.

  3. Step 3

    Tamp down the sand with a tamping tool.

  4. Step 4

    Add a thin layer of fine sand, water lightly and tamp again until the sand layer is very slightly above the bottoms of the other pavers.

  5. Step 5

    Beginning in a corner of the open space, install one of the pavers. Tap on top of the paver with a rubber mallet until it is flush with the adjoining pavers, and check it with a level. Pick up the paver, and add or remove sand below for any necessary adjustments; replace the paver.

  6. Step 6

    With the mallet, gently tap the sides of the paver so that it is snug against all adjoining pavers.

  7. Step 7

    Install remaining pavers in the same way.

  8. Step 8

    Sprinkle fine sand over the repaired area and sweep the sand into the cracks. Rinse the entire surface.

  9. Repairing a surface set in mortar

  10. Step 1

    Remove damaged paving stones, using a pry bar or a cold chisel and a mason's hammer, if necessary.

  11. Step 2

    Chisel off the remaining mortar from the exposed base and from the edges of adjoining pavers.

  12. Step 3

    Lay down the new pavers in place as a dry run to make sure they fit properly, then set them aside. If you're using flagstones, cut any pieces to fit as necessary (see "Cutting flagstones to fit a space").

  13. Step 4

    Put dry premixed mortar (or a mixture of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand) in a mortar box or wheelbarrow. Mix in water a little at a time until the mortar is the consistency of mud.

  14. Step 5

    Wet the surface you'll be working on. Don't work on more than 4 to 6 square feet (1.2 to 1.8 square m) at a time, and start working in a corner if you can.

  15. Step 6

    With a mason's trowel, lay down a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mortar where the new pavers will go.

  16. Step 7

    Use a short 2-by-4 wood scrap to smooth the mortar until it is level.

  17. Step 8

    Place the paving units in the mortar, checking frequently to make sure they are level and flush with adjoining pavers. If a paver is a little too high or is raised on one side, tap it lightly with a rubber mallet (see A); if it's too low, pick it up and add some mortar before replacing it.

  18. Step 9

    When all the pavers are placed, fill the joints between them with another batch of the same mortar mix, using a small pointing trowel (see B). You can leave this mortar flush with the tops of the pavers, or use the trowel to recess it slightly.

  19. Step 10

    After 3 to 4 hours, brush off any excess mortar using a stiff nylon brush.

  20. Cutting flagstones to fit a space

  21. Step 1

    Draw a chalk line across the part of the stone that needs to be removed. Flip over the stone and continue drawing the line on the other side.

  22. Step 2

    Place the stone on a surface that is firm but not too hard, such as a lawn or a bed of sand.

  23. Step 3

    Wearing safety goggles, tap along the line with a bolster chisel and a mason's hammer. Tap back and forth along the line several times.

  24. Step 4

    Flip the stone over and do the same on the line on the other side.

  25. Step 5

    Turn the stone over again, and hit on the line with gradually increasing force until a strong blow breaks off the piece.

Tips & Warnings
  • To protect your hands, always wear work gloves when handling stones or working with concrete and mortar.
  • On a patio, consider leaving unpaved a space 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) across and planting a shrub or small tree there.
  • Remember to lift heavy objects--whether a stone or a sack of concrete--by bending your knees and lifting carefully, and not by bending your back and risking injury.
  • Wearing steel-toed work boots is always a good idea if you'll be moving a lot of stones. At least be sure to avoid wearing sneakers-- or open-toed sandals!
  • When you're cutting or trimming stones, always be sure to wear safety goggles.

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