Step1
Before removing any parts other than a handle, turn off the water with the shutoff valves under the sink, or the branch lines or main shutoffs (hot and cold) for a tub faucet. Then open the faucet to drain it.
Step2
If you don't have an exploded parts diagram for your faucet, obtain one from the manufacturer (online, by fax or by mail). If you're using a repair kit, follow its instructions carefully. Otherwise, disassemble the faucet to determine its type, laying out the parts in the exact order of removal.
Step3
After a repair, always turn the faucet to the On position and slowly open both shutoff valves. When the water is flowing without air, turn off the faucet.
Fixing a compression faucet (see A)
Step1
To stop a spout drip or handle leak, pry off the cap from the faucet's top with a nail file or other thin blade to access and remove the handle screw and handle.
Step2
If the handle is stuck and you can't pry it off with a large tape-padded screwdriver, use a handle puller. This tool's arms hook under the handle and pull it up as you turn the threaded shaft down onto the top of the faucet spindle.
Step3
To stop a handle leak, turn on the water and try tightening the packing nut with an adjustable wrench. If that fails, shut off the water and continue to the next step.
Step4
Remove the packing nut with an open-ended wrench of the correct size or with locking pliers. Cut off the O-ring around the base of the spindle with a utility knife and roll on a new one. Or in some models, unscrew the threaded spindle from the packing nut, then replace the pack string that's wound clockwise around the spindle just below the packing nut.
Step5
To repair a spout drip, remove the stem screw and washer from the bottom of the stem assembly and replace the washer. Insert a mild abrasive pad into the open valve and rub back and forth to clean the valve seat. Also stick your finger into the open valve to feel for any rough edges indicating damage.
Step6
If a removable seat is damaged or corroded, replace it. Insert a seat wrench into the hole to unscrew it (turn counterclockwise). Coat the threads of the new seat with pipe-joint compound before screwing it in.
Step7
Resurface a damaged nonremovable seat with a seat-dressing tool, which threads into the valve. As you turn the T-handle shaft, a cutter head resurfaces the seat.
Repairing a cartridge faucet (see B)
Step1
To stop a spout drip or a leak at the base of the faucet, first pry off the cap on top of the faucet with a nail file to access and remove the handle screw. Lift off the handle.
Step2
If it's a leak at the faucet base, next remove the retainer ring with channel-type pliers and wiggle the spout up and off the faucet body. Cut off the O-rings and roll on identical replacements.
Step3
If it's a spout drip, look on the outside of the faucet for a retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place and pull it off. Or with some types, turn a nut counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench or channel-type pliers and remove it.
Step4
Grasp the cartridge with pliers and pull it straight out. Cut off the O-rings and roll on identical replacements.
Step5
Reassemble the faucet and test. If it still drips, replace the cartridge.
Step6
To replace a worn cartridge, first note its orientation. The most common type has a flat side that faces front. If you fail to install the new one the same way, you'll reverse the hot and cold orientation. Reinstall the retainer clip snugly in its slot.
Step7
Press the spout back on and screw on the retaining ring by hand, then snug it with a wrench. Reinstall the handle and snap on the index cap.
Fixing a ball faucet (see C)
Step1
If water leaks at the handle, leave the water on and tighten the adjusting ring. Use a provided repair-kit wrench or tape-padded channel-type pliers.
Step2
If the leak persists, turn off the water and remove the handle setscrew and handle. Remove the adjusting ring and replace the plastic or ceramic cam and the seal between it and the ball.
Step3
To stop spout drips, lift out the ball, remove the rubber inlet seals and springs, and clean the ball and inlet openings. Install new seals and springs, and reposition the ball so its slot fits over an aligning pin between the water inlets.
Step4
To stop leaks at the base of the spout, lift off the spout to replace the O-rings around the faucet body. Use a utility knife to cut off the old ones; clean the faucet body before you roll on identical replacements.
Fixing a ceramic-disc faucet (see D)
Step1
If a faucet with a ceramic-disc valve leaks, it's usually because of dirty seals. Disassemble it for cleaning. Remove the handle setscrew's cap, the setscrew and the handle. Lift off the cap and remove the screws that secure the cylinder below it. Lift out the cylinder and turn it over to pull out the neoprene seals carefully.
Step2
Clean the cylinder, the water-inlet openings in the cartridge, and the faucet body and neoprene seals with an old, soft toothbrush or a mild abrasive pad under running water.
Step3
Reassemble and test. If the leak persists, contact the manufacturer for warranty information before purchasing a replacement cartridge and seals.
Comments
masaid said
on 4/13/2008 Wow GREAT VIDEO
Shawn said
on 7/18/2007 wow - great video and tips - thanks
unhandy said
on 6/7/2007 I would like to know how to repair an outside faucet.
Jenniferpa said
on 11/30/2006 In the event that replacing the O rings on a ball faucet fails to stop a leak at the base of the spout (C step 4) check to see if the steel alignment pin has fallen into the flow diverter. The flow diverter can be removed from the body of the faucet and cleaned (a good idea when you've come this far anyway).
vze28cc4 said
on 10/17/2006 I had a dripping kitchen faucet. I replaced the washers. Still dripping. Icontacted 'Delta' The manufacturer and was delighted to find that their products have a 'lifetime' guarantee. It seems that the washers and stems needed to be replaced. They asked for my name and address and shipped the assembly, free of charge (along with detailed instruction). Check all guarantee's and warantee's