How To Do Just About Everything
By eHow Electronics Editor
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An electronic crossover routes frequencies from your stereo to the proper speakers. There are many different types of electronic crossovers, including two-way (lowpass and highpass) and three-way (lowpass, bandpass and highpass). Commonly, the speakers in the front and the rear of the car play highpass. The subwoofers play lowpass. Midrange speakers play bandpass. These instructions are for a three-way crossover.
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Comments
Anonymous said
on 11/30/2005 Okay... I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but if you don't things because of self experimentation or another well known fact that has been proven... resist the need to spread bogus information. people come here to learn... it'd be nice if they left with correct information, instead of making them dumber than they originally were to begin with.
1. don't drill a hole in ur firewall. most cars already have a hole big enough and room in the boot for another cable or 2. if you see a bundle of wires going thru the firewall and it has a rubber gasket (boot) around it... pull that off... then pull off the corresponding under dash panel... feed cable... shouldnt be too hard to find it. oh yeah... before doing anything with power cables... disconnect your battery first.
3. never try to use a wire coming off the deck unless it?s specifically marked REM, or the install manual says that a particular wire is the remote. Even then? if you have bought harnesses? make sure you use the deck?s factory harness and color for REM to figure out what color the REM wire corresponds to the wiring harness? they aren?t always the same.
2. i have no idea what static electricity this jordan guy is talking about... but ignore him. for static... just don't touch microchips without grounding yourself first. you shouldnt even see internal electronic components like that anyway.
3. when jordan claims that the placement of a subwoofer doesnt make a difference... he is just flat out wrong. either he has never tried experimenting or he hasnt been educated. why do you think orchestra pits are shaped the way they are? why do you think concert halls are engineered the way they are? if you have a decent computer sub or home stereo sub... get it bumpin a little bit... and stand in a corner. voila... now you are smarter than jordan. best way is to just experiment with different positions.
4. buy harnesses for your deck. You will need 2 usually? one for the deck and then another for the vehicles factory harness. Plan on spending $30-$50 for em both. Trust me? unless you are an electrician or a pro with a soldering iron? cutting/splicing wires shouldn?t be done. Every cut/splice is potentially a future problem or worse? a fire hazard. Plus when u go to sell ur car? u can pop in the factory stuff back in because you were smart and bought harnesses. ;)
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If your front dash has the space, your best bet would be to install a passive EQ. The better models are three way with separate subwoofer inputs directly from the radio. This will allow you to tailor the sound to your tastes and to your car's interior. Plus there's the convenience of not having to pop the trunk every time you want to change the sound (unlike a crossover). Don't get those 200 watt type EQs because they're cheap and add distortion to the signal, plus you can't connect them to separate amplifiers.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 When trying to set up a subwoofer, remember to make the effort to make it tidy. Don't have any cords showing...If you can hide all the cords, it makes it look more professional.
First, drill the fire wall for your power to your amp. Your amp shouldn't have a switch from the battery to the amp, because if you turn the main power off straight away, you can lose your static electricity holder which can cause major problems. Then pull out your CD player and connect the RCA cords from the back onto your CD player, and run them out of the enclosure of the CD player holder. Do the same with the remote power. This should be the only blue wire coming out the back of the CD player with nothing plugged into it.
Once you have that done, run all your cables over your pedals (under your steering wheel column). Remove the kick guard on the driver's side and all the floor panels under where their door would cover when it's shut. Remove all the seals from the door as well.
From here, I can't really tell you any more because all cars are different. Just try and do a neat job. On all joints, remember to use a heat shrink wire protector...This makes the job look so much better and it reduces the chances of shorting out your car, which is a major problem.
When it is all set up, turn your sub volume right down so there is no sound coming out of your sub, then turn your CD player up really loud until your speakers are peaking. Then slowly turn your sub up until your sub starts to peak (peak = distort). The reason you do this is because then you can have your system at its loudest without distorting. If you have you sub louder than it should be, your sub is going to distort before your speakers, which means that you can't turn it up as loud without listening to distorted bass.
Change your frequency rating until you think it is the clearest bass signal and then you're practically set. When people tell you where you should put your sub because it sounds different in different places of your boot, don't listen to them. A sub plays low frequency and that signal will just travel through your car no matter what, so it all sounds the same.
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