Fill tiny holes
Step1
Use a putty knife to apply spackling compound, available in small cans for touch-ups. Let dry. If the first coat shrinks as it dries and leaves a slight indentation, apply a second coat.
Step2
Sand lightly with fine sandpaper. Touch up with primer and paint.
Repair loose plaster
Step1
Remove any small, loose chunks of plaster and patch the holes (see "Fill holes and areas where plaster is missing," opposite page). Reattach larger sections of plaster with screws and plaster washers, spaced a few inches (about 7 cm) apart, using a drill and driver. For large, loose areas, install the washers in concentric rings, starting where the plaster is firmly attached and working inward. Cover the area with joint compound.
Step2
To reinforce plaster along large cracks, install screws every 6 inches (15 cm) on both sides of the crack and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from it (see A). Drill pilot holes with a 1/8-inch (3-mm) masonry drill bit. Cover the area with joint compound.
Mix compound
Step1
Use a setting-type joint compound such as Durabond 90 for all repairs other than tiny holes. Mix the compound in a bucket with water according to the directions. Depending on the quantity, use a potato masher, paint-mixing drill attachment or paddle mixer.
Step2
Transfer a working supply of the compound into a mud pan, a drywall specialty item.
Fill holes and areas where plaster is missing
Step1
Fill a hole with compound to within 1/8 inch (3 mm) of the surface using a 6-inch (15-cm) spackle knife. Then scratch the wet compound in a crisscross pattern with the edge of your knife. When the scratched coat dries, apply a leveling coat.
Step2
For larger areas of missing plaster, measure a piece of drywall to fit the hole, cut the piece out with a utility knife, then screw it to the lath (see B). Apply the compound in two stages and extend it about 2 inches (5 cm) onto the surrounding surface. Embed paper drywall-reinforcing tape in the compound and smooth with a spackle knife or wide trowel (see C).
Step3
Apply two or three additional coats of compound, allowing complete drying between coats and feathering each coat over a wider area than the preceding one. Drying time varies according to the type of compound as well as the humidity and ventilation.
Step4
Use a pole sander or a similar pad sander with very fine (150-grit) sandpaper to smooth the compound after it has dried.
Repair hairline cracks
Step1
Apply a thin coat of compound on the wall along the crack.
Step2
Embed paper drywall-reinforcing tape in the compound immediately and smooth with a spackle knife.
Step3
Continue as described in steps 3 and 4 of "Fill holes and areas where plaster is missing," above.
To reinforce plaster along large cracks, install screws every 6 inches (15 cm) on both sides of the crack and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from it (see A). Drill pilot holes with a 1/8-inch (3-mm) masonry drill bit. Cover the area with joint compound.
For larger areas of missing plaster, measure a piece of drywall to fit the hole, cut the piece out with a utility knife, then screw it to the lath (see B). Apply the compound in two stages and extend it about 2 inches (5 cm) onto the surrounding surface. Embed paper drywall-reinforcing tape in the compound and smooth with a spackle knife or wide trowel (see C).
Comments
rocker7969 said
on 8/28/2008 I have to say that the best way to fix any damaged plaster is to find someone who knows how to plaster, and not use any drywall materials that were mentioned above. Drywall mud and Plaster are two completely different products.
neoshade said
on 12/6/2007 Ever sand through to the paper on drywall or sheetrock?
Drywall paper will puff up and ruin a plaster job if it's sanded.
Spray hairspray liberally over the area, and push the paper back down with a trowel, and wait for it to dry before plastering. This time it won't come back!
Jaeger1 said
on 5/22/2007 I can attest to the avoidance of using fiberglass mesh tape. I had some repairs done to a hairline crack on a plaster ceiling about a year ago before the entire ceiling was going to be textured and painted. I know the guys utilized 2" fiberglass tape and a premixed joint compound. After about eight months, the mesh tape started to sag and "bubble" all along the crack. Does anyone have any suggestions concerning how much of the texture compound I should remove beyond the 2" width of the old fiberglass tape in order to make everything blend in as best as possible? Any additional pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your assistance.