How to Sew With Knitted Elastic
Using the proper techniques for the elastic in your sewing project can make the difference between a garment that holds its shape while remaining comfortable and having a garment fall apart during wear. Some types of elastic can be cut vertically, some can be sewn through, and some won't roll or become thinner when stretched. Knitted elastic can be sewn through, and some kinds of ribbed knit elastic can be cut to your desired thickness.
Things You'll Need
- Iron
- Sewing machine
- Ruler or sewing gauge
- Scissors
- Straight pins
- Thread
- Ballpoint or stretch needle, if sewing knitted elastic to knit fabric
Instructions
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1
Select your pins and needle. If you are sewing knitted elastic to knit fabric, use ballpoint pins and a ballpoint or stretch needle. If you are sewing knitted elastic to woven fabric, use sharp pins and an universal needle.
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2
Prepare your garment for adding elastic by pressing the garment, including pressing all seam allowances flat. Finish the raw edges of the area where you want to add the elastic with an overcast stitch. Use a regular zigzag just over the raw edge if your machine doesn't have a special overcast stitch.
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3
Place the garment so the area where you want to add the elastic is facing away from you on your work surface. Fold the edge of the area where you want to add the elastic down 1/4 inch. Press the fold.
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4
Measure out enough elastic to come 5 to 10 percent short of the measurement of the area you're attaching the elastic to. Cut the elastic.
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5
Slip the elastic into the 1/4-inch fold. Hold down one end of the elastic with your thumb, stretch slightly with your fingers to open up the knit, and pin through the folded fabric and elastic with your other hand. Go all the way around the area, stretching slightly and pinning. Make sure the ends of the elastic overlap slightly.
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6
Sew the elastic in place, through the folded fabric. Remove the pins as you go. Use a double line of stitching over the elastic overlap.
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7
Fold the elastic down towards the wrong side of the garment. Sew the elastic in place, close to the new fold.
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Tips & Warnings
If you experience skipped stitches or raveled elastic with a universal needle, switch to a ballpoint needle.
Most patterns with elastic will allow enough room for the stitched down elastic, but if you are trying to copy a garment you have, allow for twice the width of the elastic plus 5/8 inch where you're trying to add the elastic.
References
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Polka Dot/Getty Images
