How to Sew a Panel Into a Skirt

Adding a skirt panel requires careful measurement.

Adding panels to a skirt can modify the size so that a valued skirt can continue to be worn even when your waist, hip or thigh size is larger. Size adjustments are done at side seams on most garments. To add panels, determine if you have fabric for the panels or if you are going to use a different fabric from the original. If you use a different fabric, it should closely match the original in weight, stretch and drape. It should contrast with the original material so that your panel looks intentional and planned.

Things You'll Need

• Seam ripper
• Tape measure
• Muslin
• Scissors
• Tailor's chalk
• Safety pins
• Fabric
• Pins
• Pen
• Sewing machine

Instructions

1. Open the side seams of the skirt using a seam ripper. Be careful not to pull or damage the fabric. If your skirt has a waistband, facing or lining, you will need to open the seam at these locations to separate your skirt into two halves. Skirts that zip at the side seam require half of the stitching around one side of the zipper to be removed. Clean up all your cut threads.

2. Place your front skirt section right side up and flat on the worktable. The side of the skirt will have a shape. It will be straight, curved to the inside or curved to the outside. Use tailor's chalk to mark the waist and hip area on the fabric with a short horizontal line.

3. Fold muslin in half so that your half section is 4 inches wide and 4 inches longer than the length of the skirt. Slide the folded muslin under the left side of the front skirt section until the edge of the muslin is covered. Draw a line in tailor's chalk tracing along the side edge of the skirt fabric. Mark the waist and hip area on the muslin with short horizontal lines.

4. Place the rear skirt section right side up next to your front section. Overlap the right side of the skirt on the muslin so that the left edge of the muslin is covered. Align the waistband and hems of the two skirt sections. Draw a line in tailor's chalk tracing the right side edge of the back skirt section onto the muslin. Cut along the chalk lines on each side of your muslin. Separate the two pieces of muslin. Leave the top piece in place. Turn the bottom piece over horizontally and place it next to the right side of the front of the skirt.

5. Turn the left side muslin piece to the left horizontally. Align the right back side of the skirt with the side of the muslin. Pin a 1/2-inch seam, using safety pins. Turn the right side muslin piece to the left horizontally. Align the right front side of the skirt with the side of the muslin. Pin a 1/2-inch seam, using safety pins.

6. Turn the back skirt section to the right horizontally so that the front and back of the skirt have right sides together. Align the left side of the muslin with the left side of the front of the skirt. Pin a 1/2-inch seam with safety pins. Align the right side of the muslin with the skirt back and pin a 1/2-inch seam with safety pins.

7. Try on the skirt with the seams on the outside. Use straight pins to adjust the fit. The skirt side of the seam will not change. If you need to reduce the size of the skirt by 1 inch, open a safety pin and move your muslin fabric 1/4 inch to create a 3/4-inch muslin side seam along that horizontal section of the skirt. If you need to reduce the waist by 2 inches and the hips by 1 inch, work your way from the waistband down, adjusting all four seams evenly. When you reach the hem, your skirt should fit properly. Look in a mirror to check the fit.

8. Remove the skirt and mark your seam lines on the muslin with a pen. Label the panel so you remember which panel fits which side. Remove the muslin and trim away the excess side fabric based on your fitting. Use the muslin as a pattern for your panel material. Pin and cut your new skirt fabric. Pin your panels in place, with right sides together and sew 1/2-inch seams. Install your zipper if it is inside one of your seams. Use the muslin for the lining pattern. Cut and sew your lining together. Attach the waistband and hem the new sections of your skirt. Follow the same hem technique of the original skirt.

Tips & Warnings

• The lining is typically slightly smaller than the skirt so that it drapes evenly to the inside of the skirt without bunching. Reserve your last lining seam and hand fit the seam when you are working on the hem.

References

• Flickr: How To Add Panels To An A-Line Skirt