Know that whatever type of bridle you choose, the headstall will attach it to the horse's head and keep the bit in his mouth. (See glossary for an explanation of the different types of headstall.)
Step2
Make sure the headstall is adjusted so the bridle creates small wrinkles in the side of the horse's mouth.
Step3
Understand that bridles work in a horse's mouth using leverage. The top of the bridle has a bump or lift in it that works against the roof of the horse's mouth. The harder you pull, the more pressure against the horse's mouth; this is what gets him to lower or move his head.
Step4
Realize that you can severely damage a horse's mouth - even cause it to bleed - if you use too much force when pulling the reins.
Step5
Know that the taller the centerpiece of the bridle, the harsher the impact.
Step6
Choose a bridle that fits your horse's needs. A correction bit is very severe. A training bridle is less severe. There are all sorts of bridles: some have rollers in the center for the horse's tongue to play with, and some are made of copper or other metals to help a horse salivate.
Step7
Know that snaffle bits are hinged bits - the hinge breaks inside the horse's mouth at the center. The reins attach to rings on either side of the mouthpiece; the rider pulls directly on the horse's mouth and there is no leverage.
Tips & Warnings
Because snaffle bits are not as severe, they're used on younger horses and horses that are being trained. Snaffle bits don't rotate in the mouth or push against the roof of the mouth.
Leveraged bits or bridles that don't pull directly from the ring attached to the bar inside the horse's mouth can be harsh, depending on the amount of pressure applied. Use only enough pull to get your horse to respond.
on 11/22/2005
Even though it may seem a good deal to buy a cheap bridle, you may want to consider how long you want to be using the same piece of equiptment. There are a few types of leater out there, and it's worth getting a quality one to make sure your equipment lasts. Cheap leather has a painted on finish and it doesn't soak in oil very well. You can tell this by the way it looks like the color has been painted on. Because it won't soak in oil, it will dry out over time, thus causing cracks and brittle leather that will break. Good leather is plyable and well oiled, it soaks up a leather moisturizer and it lasts for a very long time.
on 11/22/2005
If you see a hinged bit that has shanks (the reins would clip below the mouth piece), the bit acts with leverage, and is not a snaffle. These bits aren't actually that gentle. Don't let anyone tell you that it is a cowboy or western snaffle. It's a type of curb called a Tom Thumb. The only true snaffles are the ones where the reins go on the same ring as the mouthpiece.
on 11/22/2005
There are many types of reins out there: leather, synthetic, horse hair mecates, and rubber based to name a few. My personal preference is a nylon mecate rein with slobber straps. Slobber straps are pieces of leather that attach the rein to the snaffle bit . They are usually about 6-9 inches long and help protect the reins from water when they drink as well as looking sharp. I choose to use a nylon mecate rein that I bought from Naturalhorsesupply.com, they're soft and durable and have been wonderful on my hands. Parelli.com also has a version of these as well as many other company's that have quality rope that you can attatch to the slobber straps yourself.
on 11/22/2005
My personal belief is that until the horse and rider both reach a very sufficient level of expertise in their ability, nothing more than a snaffle is safe to use. Some people think that they can correct a horse's problem behavior with harsh mechanics that force it to comply to what they want. More often than not, this causes more problems than solutions. If you can't ride well with a halter, then don't graduate to a bit. You're horse isn't sensitive enough and you aren't acting as a team. Also, make sure to buy a bit that fits the horse. More often than not, regular snaffle bits can pinch and cause discomfort that can lead to undesireable behavior. Buying a wide enough bit that is "pinchless" is a great way to start out. Look for Eggbutt snaffles or Dee ring snaffles, and definately avoid anything with too much contraption or twisted wires. These are harsh and inhumane ways to train a horse. Just because there is a lot of product out there, doesn't mean it's all safe to use.
on 11/22/2005
A hinge or break in the center of the mouthpiece of a bit is not always indicative that the bit is a snaffle. Snaffle bits may have almost any type of mouthpiece. The true difference between snaffles and curbs is the shank. Snaffle bits do not have a shank, but curb bits do.
Comments
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Even though it may seem a good deal to buy a cheap bridle, you may want to consider how long you want to be using the same piece of equiptment. There are a few types of leater out there, and it's worth getting a quality one to make sure your equipment lasts. Cheap leather has a painted on finish and it doesn't soak in oil very well. You can tell this by the way it looks like the color has been painted on. Because it won't soak in oil, it will dry out over time, thus causing cracks and brittle leather that will break. Good leather is plyable and well oiled, it soaks up a leather moisturizer and it lasts for a very long time.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 If you see a hinged bit that has shanks (the reins would clip below the mouth piece), the bit acts with leverage, and is not a snaffle. These bits aren't actually that gentle. Don't let anyone tell you that it is a cowboy or western snaffle. It's a type of curb called a Tom Thumb. The only true snaffles are the ones where the reins go on the same ring as the mouthpiece.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 There are many types of reins out there: leather, synthetic, horse hair mecates, and rubber based to name a few. My personal preference is a nylon mecate rein with slobber straps. Slobber straps are pieces of leather that attach the rein to the snaffle bit . They are usually about 6-9 inches long and help protect the reins from water when they drink as well as looking sharp. I choose to use a nylon mecate rein that I bought from Naturalhorsesupply.com, they're soft and durable and have been wonderful on my hands. Parelli.com also has a version of these as well as many other company's that have quality rope that you can attatch to the slobber straps yourself.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 My personal belief is that until the horse and rider both reach a very sufficient level of expertise in their ability, nothing more than a snaffle is safe to use. Some people think that they can correct a horse's problem behavior with harsh mechanics that force it to comply to what they want. More often than not, this causes more problems than solutions. If you can't ride well with a halter, then don't graduate to a bit. You're horse isn't sensitive enough and you aren't acting as a team.
Also, make sure to buy a bit that fits the horse. More often than not, regular snaffle bits can pinch and cause discomfort that can lead to undesireable behavior. Buying a wide enough bit that is "pinchless" is a great way to start out. Look for Eggbutt snaffles or Dee ring snaffles, and definately avoid anything with too much contraption or twisted wires. These are harsh and inhumane ways to train a horse. Just because there is a lot of product out there, doesn't mean it's all safe to use.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 A hinge or break in the center of the mouthpiece of a bit is not always indicative that the bit is a snaffle. Snaffle bits may have almost any type of mouthpiece. The true difference between snaffles and curbs is the shank. Snaffle bits do not have a shank, but curb bits do.