Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Things You’ll Need:
Step1
Know that there are different levels of prepurchase exams. A simple exam may include a thorough physical, with flexion tests or palpation of a pregnant mare. An extensive exam may include blood tests, ultrasound and X-rays.
Step2
Don't use the same veterinarian to perform the prepurchase exam that the seller uses. This is a conflict of interest and can only create problems if the veterinarian knows about, finds, discloses or fails to disclose a problem. Even if you have to haul the horse to a different vet, do it.
Step3
Look up veterinarians in the phone book. Use an equine specialist.
Step4
Check with local horse owners or trainers for veterinarian recommendations.
Step5
Tell the vet the purpose for which you're purchasing the horse. If the horse will be used as a broodmare, then the vet should concentrate the exam on the reproductive system and not the soundness of the horse. Likewise, if the animal is a performance horse, soundness is extremely important.
Step6
Have the vet ask the seller or seller's agent if the horse has been given any type of drug within the past 24 to 48 hours. This is important because if a drug was used, it may mask the appearance of lameness.
Step7
Instruct your vet to draw blood. If the seller says no drugs had been used and drugs are found in the horse's system, the seller could be liable if the horse turns up lame soon after the purchase.
Step8
Request that you be informed of any suspected health problems. As a buyer, it's important to be aware of any defects the horse has. Depending on what they are and what you'll be using the horse for, this information will help you make your decision.
Step9
Don't get attached to a horse until after you get a prepurchase exam and decide you're going to buy the horse. It can save you lots of headache, money and heartache down the road.
Comments
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 -Don't ride your horse the first day give it time to get used to the arena or pasture. -Spend a few hours getting it settled in. (brushing,leading, and stall cleaning ext.)
-If the horse has a new name spend time petting the horse and saying it's name.
Anonymous said
on 8/8/2006 I actually don't let my customers ride their new horse until they have interacted at the ground level and taken the horse on numerous hand-walks throughout a period of anywhere from 1-2 weeks. Sometimes even longer if it's a young, green horse that has perhaps never lived anywhere else besides where we bought them from. I want the bonding at the ground level to take place first, and I also don't want the horse to feel that all their new human has is expectations of what the horse can do for them (such as riding them) and have no interest in them otherwise. Once a horse has settled in, settled down and also begun to bond with their new human (and the pair develop a mutual respect for one another with the human in the leader spot), then the chances of anything negative occurring dissipate. Then the chances of positives occurring instead of negatives become greater.
Horsedoc said
on 1/30/2008 Dont be blinded by the horses color...grey is pretty but accompanied by melanomas; safety is paramount; if you cant afford a veterinary prepurchase exam, you cant afford a horse. The purchase price is minimal; the constant monthly board, feed, blacksmith, vet are the costs that will get you