How to Set Up a Nontoxic Print Shop for Silk-Screening
Printing the old-fashioned way required oil-based inks and solvents and - even with a good ventilation system - was hard on the lungs (not to mention the liver and kidneys). Here's how to detoxify the process.
Things You'll Need
- Chlorine Bleach
- Water-based Etching Or Lithographic Inks
- Coveralls
- Protective Clothing
- Mr. Clean
- Window Fans
- Ventilation Systems
- Barrier Creams
- Rubber Gloves
- Spray Booths
- Bath Exhaust Fans
- Pressure Washers
- Several Pairs Of Safety Goggles
Instructions
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Use water-soluble rather than oil-based inks. This is the single most effective step you can take to detoxify your shop - everything else is built on this.
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Stock the shop with long pants and long-sleeved shirts (or coveralls) and latex or rubber gloves. Water-based inks are much safer than oil, but they're still not good for your skin.
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3
Keep the shop cool to prevent the inks from evaporating (this also keeps the prints from drying as quickly).
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4
Create a ventilation system that pulls air out of the shop - this will create a vacuum effect that draws fresh air in. Even a window fan can do this.
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5
Buy a pressure washer, and buy or build a spray booth in which to clean your silk screens. This lets you spray, rather than scrub, the screens and minimizes contact with the ink.
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Stock up on goggles to wear when spraying your screens.
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Wash silk screens promptly after printing using Mr. Clean or a solution of 3 parts household bleach to 1 part water: the longer the screens dry, the harder they will be to wash out and the more likely you'll need to use a stronger, more toxic product such as A6 Screenwash.
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Tips & Warnings
Always wear gloves when handling photo emulsion; it's more toxic than ink.
If you're handling a lot of ink and don't want to wear gloves, use barrier cream, which will prevent your skin from absorbing the ink.
Make sure the ventilation system doesn't blow air over the printing area - this will dry out your prints and make printing harder.
