How to Sew Period Costumes
Sewing period costumes, whether for a historical re-enactment, a theater production or costume party, can be a challenge. This project requires detailed research, patience and planning. You may have to search hard for sewing patterns, appropriate fabrics and accessories, but putting together a period costume can be satisfying and rewarding. If you do a good quality job on the costume, it will last for many years and help others to visualize the past.
Instructions
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Find period patterns online, at fabric stores or in books. Acquire a clothing pattern relevant to your chosen time period. Fabric stores usually have some period costume patterns in the costume sections of pattern books. For a more extensive selection, search online for period costume patterns. To make sure that a pattern is historically correct, check out a book from the library that shows costumes from various time periods, and make sure your sewing pattern fits the style.
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A dress form can be helpful for fitting a mock-up. Make a mock-up, also sometimes called a muslin, using the pattern to make sure the costume will fit. A mock-up is a sample of the costume made up in muslin, an inexpensive cotton fabric. Although this step adds time and work to the process, it helps you to know if the garment's fit will be correct, especially when worn over period-correct undergarments. This is especially important for bodices that will be worn over corsets since the silhouette will be different from the wearer's natural shape.
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Use plenty of pins when adjusting your mock-up. Try the mock-up on inside out, If the garment is too large in some places, take the seams in and use straight pins to help you remember how much to take them in. If the garment is too small in some places, use a seam ripper to remove seams. Hand-stitch the new seam with a smaller seam allowance.
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Be careful when cutting your expensive fabric. Cut pattern pieces from the costume's fabric using your adjusted mock-up. Make sure that you've bought fabric appropriate to your time period. Even though it's more durable, a polyester fabric is historically inaccurate for a 19th-century Frontier costume. After you've cut your fabric pieces, sew them together using directions from the pattern.
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Trim adds historically correct detail to your period costume. Add appropriate trim and accessories to the costume. For certain types of cording and braiding, you may find it easiest to hand sew them to the costume, especially in tight areas such as sleeves. Don't overlook head pieces. During many time periods, people always wore a hat or other head pieces, and your period costume may be incomplete without one.
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Tips & Warnings
Remember that period costume patterns may not work just like modern costume patterns. You may have to adjust the pattern to size more than you normally would.
Visit antique stores for examples of period clothing.
References
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