How to Build a 4x8 Half-Pipe Skate Ramp

Halfpipes feature two ramps facing each other, allowing skateboard riders to move back and forth to perform a series of tricks. While these ramps may be manufactured out of a number of materials, including steel or concrete, wood halfpipes take the least amount of time and money to build. If you want to create a 4-by-8-foot halfpipe for indoor use, buy untreated wood to save even more money. However, you must use treated wood if this halfpipe is being built outside. This avoids irregular wear due to weather.

Things You'll Need

• Treated 8-foot 2x6 (x42) wood
• Treated 8-foot 2x4s (x5) wood
• Treated 8-foot 2x8s (x4) wood
• Treated 8' 1-inch by 6-inch beams (x12) wood
• Treated 8' 4-inch by 4-inch beams (x4) wood
• 3/4-inch treated plywood (4-inch by 8-inch) (x2)
• 3/8-inch plywood (8-foot by 4-foot, not treated) (x12)
• 8 foot long 1.5" diameter metal pipe (x2)

Instructions

1. Determine the area where you want to build the halfpipe. Mark out an area that is 8-by-8-feet, representing the total area for your skate ramp. Use a leveler to make sure that all four corners of this section are completely level. The last thing you want is an uneven skate ramp.

2. Use four of the 2-by-6-inch beams to create an 8-foot by 8-foot square. Cut two of these beams to 7 feet, 9 inches to make this a perfect square. These beams will represent the basic foundation for your halfpipe. Make sure the 6-inch side of the beam is the height of this foundation, therefore stand each of these beams on its side.

3. Secure each of the four beams with two screws each. Use an electric drill for precise screwing.

4. Make pencil marks every 8 inches along both of the 8-by-8-foot beams. Place a 2-by-6-inch beam at each of these marked intervals. Secure these pieces with five screws on each end.

5. Place a piece of plywood down on the ground before you. Create a pencil mark 5.5 inches from the bottom of this sheet, as this will represent the very bottom of the halfpipe transition. Measure 6 feet, 10 inches from this point to represent the length of your ramp's transition. This should leave you plenty of room on your first piece of plywood for the platform.

6. Attach a 4-foot piece of string to the measured point on the piece of plywood. Tie a pencil to the end of this string to help you create the semi-circular transition as accurately as possible. Glide the pencil down the plywood until it reaches the very first mark you made at the bottom of the transition.

7. Create a second transition on this same piece of plywood, turning this piece 180 degrees in order to fit. Attach a pen to the string and trace each one of the transition pieces for a bolder guideline. Cut each of these triangular transitions out of the plywood with a jigsaw, giving you two pieces for the halfpipe.

8. Set out a second piece of plywood to create two more transitional pieces. Make sure you use the same exact measurements as before, as each of these transitions must be the same height and width in order to create a smooth ramp.

9. Stand each of the four transition cutouts at all four corners of the halfpipe frame you built earlier. Make sure these pieces extend out but remain level with the rest of the structure. Secure each of these transition pieces together with a single 2-by-6-inch beam.

10. Place a the 8-inch marks you made along the transition. Each of the beams should stand vertically along the curve. Secure each of the beams with five screws on each of the ends.

11. Place one 2-by-6-inch beam at the top of each side of your halfpipe frame, standing these pieces up vertical. Screw into place with five screws on each end.

12. Cut sixteen pieces of the 2-by-6-inch beams to the desired width of your platform. Three feet gives your riders plenty of room when resting on the platform of this halfpipe. Use this measurement as helpful guideline to creating the framework for this section. Place a 4-by-4-inch beam vertically at each back corner of the platform and screw each of the side beams to secure.

13. Screw in one of these cut beams at the top of each side of the halfpipe. This attaches the four initial beams to extend the platform, two on each side. Screw in one of the 8-foot beams in the rear of this platform to secure the triangular section.

14. Measure and mark every 1 foot along the vertical top beam of the halfpipe and the rear beam of the platform. Place one of the cut pieces of 2-by-6-inch beams vertically at each one of these markings, using screws to secure.

15. Cut 12 pieces of 1-inch by 6-inch into 8 foot long sections. Place each of these beams across the top of the platform, screwing in to each side of this area. Repeat for both sides of the halfpipe.

16. Lay down the first two sheets of 3/8-inch plywood in the middle area of the halfpipe. Stagger these sheets by 8 inches of the center to allow for more sheets of plywood to be placed along the beams of the frame. Screw into place to secure.

17. Place each of the remaining pieces of 3/8-inch plywood sheets sideways up the both transitions. Secure these remaining sheets with screws on each of the 2-by-6-inch support beams. Use a jigsaw to cut any excess wood that sticks above the coping.

18. Drill holes along each of your 1/8-inch metal pipes. Screw in each of these pipes to both sides of the halfpipe, representing the coping.

References

• Xtreme Skater: Mini Halfpipe Plans