How to Make Suit Jackets

The suit jacket is required for formal occassions.

There is a saying that 'the suit makes the man'. The traditional suit is the formal and business attire of men. The cut of the suit can enhance a man's silhouette just as a dress highlight's a woman's curves. Generally there are three different styles of suit jackets. The American style has a back vent and is a conservative boxy shape with natural shoulders and straight sides. The English style is an hourglass shape with soft shoulders, and two side vents. Both of these styles have three buttons. The European or continental style of suit jacket doesn't have a vent and has squared shoulders and is tailored to the body with two buttons. The traditional fabric for the suit jacket is wool in a dark color. Many men purchase their suit jackets off the rack, which may mean that they do not fit properly. A sleek look can be achieved by sewing the suit jacket or having a tailor create it.

Things You'll Need

• Suit jacket pattern
• Sewing machine
• Material
• Lining
• Interfacing
• Thread
• Buttons
• Tape Measure
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Pen
• Paper
• Iron
• Ironing Board

Instructions

1. 

   Full measurements will take 10 minutes to complete.

   Use the tape measure and record the measurements of the gentleman who will wear the jacket. There are 15 measurements to record: the width of neck where the top of the collar sits; chest width at widest point; stomach width at the widest point; across the shoulders from left to right across the back; the right arm, which runs from the right shoulder to the point where the base of the thumb and base of the index finger meet; left arm measurements similar to right arm; bicep width at the widest point; wrist width at the widest point; hip width at the widest part of the hips and buttock; front jacket length, which runs from the base of the neck to where your thumb knuckle rests when the arm is hanging down; front chest width, which is straight across the chest at the widest point from where the man's left arm hangs to his right arm; the back width, which is straight across the back at the widest point from where the man's left arm hangs to his right arm; half shoulder width measurements on left and right, which is from the base of the neck to the end of the shoulder; the full back measurement, which runs from the base of the neck to the floor without shoes on; and finally, the half back length, which runs from the base of the neck to the top of the waistband.

2. Choose the style of suit jacket from American, British or continental patterns. Choose appropriate wool fabric for this style. A dark color is preferable. Choose thread and lining to match the color of the fabric. Purchase the amount of fabric, lining and interfacing directed by the pattern.

3. Use scissors to cut out the pattern pieces. Assess the measurements of the gentleman and shorten or lengthen the pattern pieces as required. Consult an experienced seamstress or tailor to ensure these changes.

4. Lay the fabric on a flat surface. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric as instructed with straight pins. Remember to check the grain of the material to ensure that it runs from the top to the bottom of the pattern pieces. Cut out the pattern pieces. Unpin the pattern pieces, repin them to the lining and cut them out. Organize the fabric pieces by writing the name of each piece on paper and pinning it to the piece. Repeat with the interfacing pattern pieces.

5. Iron the interfacing to appropriate pieces of fabric. Use the iron to make the darts in the pattern piece, as indicated by the pattern, and then pin them in place.

6. Follow the pattern's instructions to sew the jacket together.

7. Sew the lining together according to the pattern's directions. Insert the lining into the jacket sew it into place.

8. Mark the placement of the buttonhole on the jacket. If you prefer, you can use pins to mark the top and the bottom of the hole. Ensure that the buttonhole will be large enough to fit the button. Use the special buttonhole functions on the sewing machine to create the buttonhole. When finished, cut the holes open with the scissors.

9. Sew the buttons into place. For a final touch, have the suit jacket dry cleaned or press with an iron, using a setting that is appropriate for the fabric.

References

• Customego: Making a Suit Jacket
• A Tailored Suit: The Men's Suit: An Introduction
• Knol: Men's Custom Jacket
• A Tailored Suit: How to Measure Mens Suits
• You Tube: How to Sew a Buttonhole