How to Make a Watercolor Block

Allow your painting to dry on the block before removal.

Watercolor blocks are stacks of paper glued on all four sides. Like pads, blocks have a firm support on the underside of the stack that makes them convenient for painting outdoors where tables or easels are not available. Unlike pads, the glue on the edge of the block holds paper securely like a stretching frame preventing the paper from warping, buckling and curling while wet. You can purchase watercolor blocks from most art supply stores, however if you make your own you save money and customize the brand, weight and texture of the paper used.

Things You'll Need

• 150 lb Watercolor paper
• Paper cutter
• Ruler
• Non-corrugated cardboard
• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Oak tag
• 4-by-4 Wood
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Table clamps
• Hand saw
• Sandpaper
• Level
• D-Clamps
• Padding compound
• Foam brush

Instructions

Cutting Pieces

1. Stack 10 sheets of paper. Press the pages horizontally against the ruler of the paper cutter. Make a mark 4 inches from the edge of the paper closest to the blade.

2. Slide the paper over so that the mark is directly under the cutting edge. Lift the safety clasp. Place your hand on the far edge of the paper stack away from the blade. Lower the blade slowly cutting through the paper stack. Replace the safety lock. Set aside the paper on the surface of the board.

3. Lift the rectangular strips of paper that you cut off. Stack the strips and place them horizontally on the cutting board. Mark them four inches from the blade and then cut the pages on the mark.

4. Repeat Steps 1 through 3 to make 20 to 50, 4-inch squares.

5. Cut a 4-by-4-inch square of thick cardboard; this square will form the base of the watercolor block. Straighten the edges with a craft knife.

6. Cut a 4-by-4-inch square of oak tag for the cover of the block.

7. Cut a 1-inch thick slice of the 4-by-4 inch wood block. Mark the wood 1 inch from the edge. Place the block into a table clamp and tighten the mechanism so that the wood is steady. Saw straight down through the block to remove the slice. Repeat to make a second wood 4-by-4-by-1-inch slice.

8. Sand the faces of the wood blocks to remove splinters and level the end grain. Place the blocks on a flat workbench and use a level to make sure that their surfaces are level within a 1/4-inch tolerance

Assembly

1. Stack the watercolor block from bottom to top as follows: wood slice, cardboard backing, paper, wood slice. Straighten the material by pressing it together along the sides. Clamp the stack together at each of the corners leaving enough space between the clamps and the block for the head of a paintbrush.

2. Apply a thin coat of padding compound around the edge of the block leaving a 1-inch gap along opposite sides of the block. These gaps make it possible to remove paper easily from the stack. Dry for one to two hours.

3. Apply a second coat of padding compound and dry overnight.

4. Remove the clamps. Use the tip of a craft knife to pry the paper block away from the wood blocks.

5. Place the oak tag sheet on top of the paper block. Apply padding compound to one edge of the block, perpendicular to the sides of the block with the 1-inch gaps. On the same side apply a thin layer of padding compound to the oak tag sheet forming a 1/2-inch to 1-inch wide band across the paper; this will reinforce the cover.

6. Lift the cover. Paint a picture on the paper. Dry the piece overnight. Slide a knife or letter opener into the 1-inch gap on either side of the block. Run the blade around the edge of the block to remove the sheet of paper. If the cover falls off, trim the edges of the block so that the padding compound is even with the page. Place the cover on the block and reapply padding compound to one side.

Tips & Warnings

• A 4-by-4-inch block is convenient for small projects and sketches. Make the block larger by increasing the dimensions of the paper, cardboard and wood.

• Use a die cutter to make circular or star-shaped blocks.

References

• "The Big Book of Painting Nature in Watercolor"; Ferdinand Petrie et al.; 1990
• "Art Hardware"; Steven L. Saitzyk; 1987
• "Watercolor basics: Let's get started"; Jack Reid; 1998