How to Make a Cargo Pocket

Both men's and women's clothing use cargo pockets.

Cargo pants and skirts derive their name from the distinctive and generous pockets that sit on the back of the apparel or on the outside of the legs. Many designers use cargo pockets on casual clothing or as outdoor wear for hiking, hunting or photography since the pockets hold a lot, something that's important when enjoying the outdoors. Cargo pockets are easy to make, since they are basic squares with a center pleat that expands when overstuffed.

Things You'll Need

• Fabric
• Scissors
• Ruler
• Pencil or fabric marker
• Pins
• Sewing machine
• Ironing board
• Iron

Instructions

1. Determine the final size for your cargo pocket and how large you want the center pleat. Larger pleats let you carry more in your pocket. An adult's cargo pocket would have a 2-inch pleat, which takes 4 total inches. Add 1 inch for the seam allowances for the width and 2 inches for the length. Cut the pocket on the straight of grain, which means that the length of the pocket follows the selvage edge or fold of the fabric.

2. Cut the pocket out and serge or zigzag the edges to prevent fraying.

3. Fold the pocket in half, from top to bottom so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing outside. Using the pencil or fabric marker and the ruler, draw a line down the pocket based on half the width of the pleat you want for the pocket. Pin the pocket in a few places to keep the sides together. Mark a perpendicular line 3 inches below the top of the pocket and 1 inch above the bottom.

4. Sew along the pleat line to the perpendicular line at the top and bottom and backstitch both. Sewing machines have forward and backward settings and the backstitching prevents the stitches from unraveling. The pleat stays open in the center of the pocket to accommodate extra contents.

5. Set up the ironing board and turn on the iron. Remove the pins from the pocket and open the pleat, distributing the fabric in the pleat equally on both sides, using the centerline as a guide. The centerline needs to match up with the sewing line at both the top and bottom of the pleat. Press the pleat into place. Turn the edges of the outside of the pocket 1/2 inch toward the wrong side of the fabric and press. Turn the top edge 1 1/2 inches to create the facing for the pocket.

6. Pin the pocket facing to the pocket to hold the facing evenly against both sides of the pocket and sew the facing down at its lower edge. Place the pocket on the back or legs of the garment you are sewing. Pin it in place every few inches and sew it down, leaving the top of the pocket open and backstitching at both sides of the pocket to secure the stitching.

References

• Burda Style: Cargo Pockets