How to Build Sliding X Climbing Anchors
Gym climbers transitioning to outdoor climbing are often tantalized by long routes. However, there are several aspects of traditional climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing that are difficult, if not impossible, to learn in a climbing gym. One of these is the construction of climbing anchors. The sliding X climbing anchor is one commonly used style that meets four of the five components of a SERENE anchor: Solid, Equalized, Redundant and Efficient.
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Things You'll Need
- Four carabineers, or two regular carabineers and one locking carabineer
- Standard length nylon sling
- Two- or three-piece climbing anchor
Instructions
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Setup
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1
Clip two of the carabineers in to the anchor points.
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2
Clip the sling through the two carabineers. You should now have a triangle of sling between the anchor points and the bottom of the sling.
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3
Pull the length of sling between the two anchor points so that it is even with the bottom of the sling.
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4
Twist the sling between the two anchor points to form an "O," then line up the O with the bottom part of the nylon sling.
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5
Clip the locking carabineer through both the O and the bottom length of runner. If you do not have a locking carabineer, use two regular carabineers with the gates opposed and revered, one facing up and one facing down.
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6
Test to see that you have set the anchor up correctly by sliding the carabineer back and forth. It should slide smoothly and evenly.
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1
Tips & Warnings
The sliding X can also be built on a three-piece anchor. Create the X with a double-length runner. To build it, duplicate the O from the first two anchor points between points two and three, then clip the locking carabineer through both Os and the bottom of the sling.
Because of the potential of shock loading, you should only use a sliding X on an anchor where each piece of gear in the anchor is solidly placed and will not fail.
Climbing is dangerous, and properly-constructed anchors are a key component of climbing safely. Seek out instruction from a guide if you never climbed before.
References
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Pixland/Getty Images
