How Do Hair Products Affect Hair Growth?

Typical Daily Hair Care

People use hair care products everyday. Our daily hair regimens often range from mere shampoo and conditioning to molding waxes, gels and flat ironing. For many, a typical hair care regimen entails shampooing and conditioning, blow drying and finishing the hair off with a styling tool, such as a flat iron and hair spray.

Sometimes we use products to maintain the health of our hair or achieve a specific style. Then there are times we use certain products to alter the condition of our hair and its rate of growth. Unfortunately, hair care products do not make hair grow. However, certain products and ingredients, in combination with the way we handle our hair, can affect the normal rate of hair growth.

Hair Is Dead

Hair in the hair follicle is alive. Once the hair emerges outside of the follicle and is visible, it is dead. Dead hair cannot be healed or repaired from damage. In spite of hair product claims that they can repair and restore damaged hair or bring hair "to life," these claims are false. These products simply alter hair by making it appear to be in optimal condition.

Hair products, from styling products to styling tools, can cause hair breakage. Certain ingredients in styling products help the hair not break, while others can lead to hair breakage. Styling tools also can lead to hair breakage if not used in an appropriate manner.

Ingredients That Help Reduce Hair Breakage

In general, alcohol is damaging to the hair; however, not all alcohols are damaging. Three common hair care ingredients that help to reduce hair breakage are cetyl alcohol, panthenol and stearyl alcohol---all of which are alcohols that provide cosmetic altering and moisturize the hair to reduce breakage.

Cetyl and stearyl alcohols are surfactants primarily found in shampoos and conditioners. These alcohols coat the hair to untangle the hair and make it softer to the touch. Panthenol is the alcohol portion of the vitamin B5. When applied to living cells, panthenol converts back to vitamin B5 and becomes a part of coenzyme A, which boosts cellular metabolism. However, since hair is dead, panthenol remains in its alcohol form, binding to the hair follicle and attracting additional moisture to the hair. Panthenol also coats the hair shaft, making it slippery and easier to comb. The coating factor in these three alcohols helps to prevent hair breakage that generally results from combing and brushing.

Certain plant and fruit oils---such as jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, almond oil and tea tree oil---help prevent hair breakage. When applied to the scalp alone, these oils help to provide moisture to the hair follicle and, once combed or brushed through the hair, add additional moisture to the hair shaft. Application to the hair adds additional moisture to the hair shaft as well as offering heat protection from the drying effects of styling tools and the sun. By preventing the hair from being dry and brittle, hair breakage is minimized during styling.

Ingredients That Promote Hair Breakage

Ethanol (commonly known as alcohol) is damaging to the hair. Ethanol is denatured for use in products that are not consumed; for hair care products, it is listed as SD (specially denatured) alcohol. Used primarily in styling products, such as hair gels and hairsprays, SD alcohol allows for these products to dry quickly on the hair. Unfortunately, SD alcohol also dries out the hair itself, eventually leaving it brittle and prone to breakage.

Beeswax and paraffin are waxes used in sculpting gels, pomades and hair puddings to help create styles that need to hold their shape, but are also flexible. In African American hair, beeswax is used to help dreadlocks and braids retain their shape and hold. Chemically, beeswax and paraffin are not damaging to the hair; however, they quickly build up. The build-up from these waxes collects dirt and dust, quickly adding more build-up that weighs the hair shaft down and is hard to wash out. The weight from the build-up leads to hair breakage.

Other Products That Lead to Hair Breakage

Chemical processing of the hair via permanents, relaxers and dyes weaken the hair shaft causing hair breakage. Heat styling, using products---such as blow dryers, curling irons, hot combs, flat irons, and hair crimpers---over time will dry out the hair and weaken it. Flat irons can be especially damaging if used on wet hair alone as the heat creates a bubble on the hair shaft which becomes a weak point in the hair that will eventually break.

Having healthy hair that will grow long and strong is a desire for many. Gentle handling of the hair is key to achieving this. Avoid products that will dry the hair or cause build-up. Wash hair regularly to avoid product build-up. When using heat-stylers, protect the hair with products designed to restore moisture back into the hair shaft. These practices will help the hair to break less often and allow you to see the full potential of your hair growth.

Resources

• Ingredients - What is in the Stuff We Buy?
• P&G Hair Care Research, a Scientific Companion